View Full Version : My 69 Coupe Prject Thread
burritoboi5
03-04-2007, 11:04 AM
I've been posting questions and progress in some other assorted threads and it was reccomended I start my own. So here goes. Bought the car in upstate NY and brought it back here to CT. Since then I've pulled off the front end of the car and by the end of the week hope to have my block at the machine shop to get it checked out. Here are some pictures of the progress so far.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/8b04_3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/44c8_3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/c7bb_3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/d73e_3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0796.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0080.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0021.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0017.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0019.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0016.jpg
Thesubhumans
03-04-2007, 01:21 PM
Nice car, it looks like you've got a good foundation to start with. What are your plans for it? A stock restore or restomod? Has it already been restored or just repainted? because it looks like there isn't any rust on it and are the frame rails in good shape?
Also, is the engine a 302 or 351w? Sorry for all the questions i just get excited seeing someone elses car that looks exactly the same as mine haha
PS: Make sure those fenders don't fall off the car the headlight buckets are $$$, ASK ME HOW I KNOW :shit:
burritoboi5
03-04-2007, 01:45 PM
hahaha yeah I have some wire holding them up there so they shouldn't fall down but worst case the car came with some extras, I sure hope I don't need to use those though. Your right in that the car doesn't look like it is the stock color, the rear fenders were replaced along with new skins on the doors. And then some poorly done patchwork on the front inner fenders so I'm replacing those as soon as I get some argon. The engine is a 302 with a c4. I'm selling the c4 though in favor of a 5 speed manual. Engine rebuild plans are completely forged bottom end, new cylinder heads so I can run unleaded, new exhaust/headers. And then a mild cam to hopefully net about 275-300 hp. Oh new carb too. Once that's setup I want to run either a 75 or 100 shot of nitrous, but I don't plan on putting that in untill I get in a rollcage and some legit harnesses. I have a monte carlo bar and export brace that are going in. Followed by some disc brakes up front and some subframe connectors to tie it all together, then maybe new gears. I also plan on playing around with some painting and seeing how that goes, or else it'll go primer till we finish up the mechanical work. O gonna need to rewire the whole damn car too. I'm just hoping to have the driveline all buttoned up by the end of the summer and have the front end panels rebuilt/brakes done/suspension rebuilt. Ambitous but I'm in highschool so I can get in a few hours of work a night and 6-10 on the weekends. I'm keeping track of all expenditures and logging the hours I put in because I think that will be cool to have when the car is all done. :red_indian:
BlackGMC
03-04-2007, 05:27 PM
Sounds like you have a great project going. The car looks to be in pretty good shape. I restored my mustang the first time when I was in high school.
I would like to add two things to your list of things to do. Make sure you replace the gas tank and fuel line. The gas tank is only like $100 and fuel line is cheap. You don't want to put crap into a brand new engine. If your planning on running nitrous down the road, more than like your gonna need a bigger fuel line anyways. Just my opinion
Thesubhumans
03-04-2007, 10:45 PM
Haha, i'm 17 and just finished highschool but that's because i'm on an apprenticeship program through school, i bought my mustang when i was 16.
Btw, the plans for your car sound goood. :yes:
burritoboi5
03-05-2007, 11:05 AM
Well, nobody can say us youngins don't have interest in the hobby :D BTW cement works VERY well to pull oil out of a garage floor before an angry parent sees it :cowboy:
burritoboi5
03-05-2007, 06:19 PM
Well finally got a harmonic dampner puller today so I got the front end off and was able to pull out the pistons. Bad news though the bearings are worn down pretty badly.....BTW anyone have comments about the strength of stock connecting rods and N20?
351carlo
03-05-2007, 08:05 PM
Connecting rods won't be your problem while running nitrous oxide.
If you're running a 75-100 shot on this thing, just get a good forged piston (TRW at least), ARP Rod bolts, Clevite 77 bearings (P's are fine). I'd recommend an NX kit as I like their solenoids better for the intro line and a good carburetor. Ignition timing is important and I personally run a digital window switch with my MSD Digital 6 Plus box to retard the timing at the same time the nitrous is engaged.
Good fuel pressure, good timing, good plugs and any motor can run on the right amount of nitrous.
351carlo
03-05-2007, 08:07 PM
Oh and it's alright to be young.... I got my Mustang when I was 17. I'm on motor number 3 and it's only been 3 years :(
Oh and no worries, original motor was very worn, second motor was a stock rebuild and was built by an idiot machinist and the third motor is in the car now.
burritoboi5
03-05-2007, 09:40 PM
Got all the pistons out tonight and used a bore gauge. Look like they are all measuring at about 4.015. I guess I'll be taking it to a machine shop and seeing what they say. probably go with a .02 over hone and get it all scrubbed and checked for cracks.
heres the engine code btw- C80E-6015-A with 8L2 written above that.
burritoboi5
03-11-2007, 07:09 PM
Well.... Dropped off the block at a machine shop. They'll be boring it out for some forged pistons. Tuesday I go to get some argon. But in the meantime I dissasembled the cylinder heads, along with taking the front suspension off the car and removing one of the inner fenders that I'm replacing. This has taken a LOT of grinding and only more to come. But an Air chisel, a sawzall, and a grinding wheel made it reasonably timely. I need to order some media for the blaster but once that comes in The front end should start getting its act together and looking decent.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0025.jpg
Thesubhumans
03-11-2007, 08:11 PM
Wow, you sure waste no time!
That car is gonna be ready to drive by summer time!
BlackGMC
03-11-2007, 08:23 PM
Wow alot going on. Why are you replacing the inner fender aprons?
burritoboi5
03-11-2007, 08:47 PM
Well actually the goal is before I go to college....So end of summer time :alucard:
I'm hoping to have the inner fenders and crossmember in there by saturday afternoon but we'll see how that timeline goes. I'll also be placing a pretty big order for engine parts on tuesday and then some brake and suspension parts up front so I can start to collect the parts I will need to get it back to a rolling chassis.
I'm replacing the inner fenders because the driver side was rippled rather oddly. And the passenger side because there were about 5 different patches made to it previously and some rust out from I assume battery fluid leaking. So I figure for 30 bucks I might as well put in a brand new formed piece of metal with no patches and no questionability in its integrity. Only problem I'm having is lining up the top lip of the inner fender with that of the closer piece now the cowl. The outside edge is about a quarter inch higher than it should and I think I'm going to have to bend my brand new piece. Any suggestions?
BlackGMC
03-11-2007, 08:56 PM
Only problem I'm having is lining up the top lip of the inner fender with that of the closer piece now the cowl. The outside edge is about a quarter inch higher than it should and I think I'm going to have to bend my brand new piece. Any suggestions?
Take some pics, your explanation is kinda hard to follow. I would try not to bend anything that could cause you more problems down the road..
burritoboi5
03-11-2007, 09:46 PM
Haha I was waiting for a request to make me go out in the garage and take more pictures. You can see that while one side sits flush the outside edge has my finger under it. Not really sure what to do here.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0029.jpg
BlackGMC
03-11-2007, 10:11 PM
Take a pic of the bottom, where it mounts to the frame rail. Take one from the inside and one fromt he outside.
newschool
03-12-2007, 12:20 PM
I also replaced my aprons as well and I ran into the same problem,looks to me that these after market replacment parts dont fit perfect as they clam.You may have to do a little bending of your own to make fit just right. those c-clamps you got on the floor might help you out a little bit!!!!
burritoboi5
03-12-2007, 04:11 PM
Yeah the c clamps or the "helper" my sledge will make it fit :batman:
I was looking at it again today and it appears as though I should be able to bend it a little, maybe an eigth an inch and it should fit once clamped and welded. Box came from Mustangs Unlimited today, my new front crossmember. I'm debating replacing the two pieces that run from the frame rails to the lower radiator support and crossmember but am having trouble figure out what the hell they're called.
O and I'd like to point out that Mustangs unlimited is an awesome website for the reproduction parts. Decent Prices and they're located in CT so regular shipping arrives in 1-2 business days for me :punk:
I'm gonna go outside and do somemore grinding and possibly tack in the passenger side fender, should be a lot easier now that all the suspension equipment is gone as of noon-time today.
burritoboi5
03-12-2007, 06:13 PM
Well... It took two hours of measuring, grinding, measuring, tacking, measuring, grinding, and It's finally spot welded in there. All the measurements seem to be within spec and I'm pretty pleased with how it came out. Except that Flux cored welding sucks and smells aweful. But anyways, that's one down two to go.
The c-clamps were awesome and I couldn't have done it without them. Just next time I'm using weld through primer, so long as the hardware store can get some in stock for me. Tomorow mornign I plan on going to get some argon and then I'll probably fool around welding up the rest of this panel and drilling some bolt holes, before moving on to the other side's panel. Here's a picture of it as it is now.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0030.jpg
BlackGMC
03-12-2007, 09:21 PM
Looks good, but if I were you I would double the amount of spot welds you did. Or throw a bead on all the edges. I like to over kill everything for that just in case situation.
Oh, could you do me a favor and take a picture at an angle getting both the radiator support and fender apron. Thanks in advance
burritoboi5
03-12-2007, 11:29 PM
Here are the two I have on my computer now. let me know if theyre good or not because I can take some more tomorow morning if you'd like them.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0032.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0031.jpg
indianfiremach
03-13-2007, 08:25 AM
Nice work, I had to replace the same panels on mine. Are you going to sandblast the rest of the engine bay?
BlackGMC
03-13-2007, 08:28 AM
Thanks for the pics, that was exactly what I was wanting. Eventually I am going to have to replace those panels too, I was just wanting to check out the fitment. Keep up the good work.
burritoboi5
03-13-2007, 09:15 AM
Thanks, and glad I could help you out there mr GMC. I pulled the driver side panel this morning and luckily had the radiator support all braced up before I ran out of flux core. So hopefully tomorw I can get some argon and then this weekend finish up welding in these two panels and the front crossmember.
After all the new sheetmetal is in I do plan on sandblasting the rest of the engine bay and por-15 the living hell out of it. But first I need to order some media and get a coil spring compressor so I can pop those big boys out. I'm gonna run down to napa and talk to a friend of mine there so that hopefully I can finalize what I want to do with the engine and then place a parts order tonight. Update on the engine BTW is that it will be getting a full complement of forged pistons and some upgraded connecting rods that are lighter and stronger than stock in both cases. :donatello:
BlackGMC
03-13-2007, 09:33 AM
ARe you going to convert the motor to a roller cam while your at it?
burritoboi5
03-13-2007, 04:46 PM
You are just too damn good at this guessing game :cowboy:
I'm planning on a roller cam with some roller rockers to complement the valvetrain setup. Also playing with the idea of EFI becuase otherwise I would have to invest about 700 in a new fuel system, (carb, fuel line, pump, tank, manifold) Not sure yet though because a performance setup would cost about 2500 but be ballin.....
BlackGMC
03-13-2007, 07:42 PM
You are just too damn good at this guessing game
Just trying to help people avoid the MANY mistakes I have made over the years...
burritoboi5
03-13-2007, 09:39 PM
hahaha, speaking of mistakes and time. My timeline may have just gotten longer. Decided to add EFI to the list for sure. But tomorow I order the brakes and parts I need to rebuild the front suspension along with some engine components, maybe even that nive lookin edelbrock EFI. Any word though on a shaker hood with an EFI setup?
BlackGMC
03-13-2007, 09:51 PM
What kinda brakes are you going with drum or disc?
burritoboi5
03-13-2007, 10:06 PM
I'm gonna go with some discs up front and keep the drums in back for now. Was looking at these.
http://www.discbrakeswap.com/
burritoboi5
03-13-2007, 10:41 PM
Quick question for you guys. I need to replace all of the wiring up front of my car. The wiring in back and under that dash is salvagable though. Would you reccomend I go with a whole new setup or just this kit?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=C9ZZ14290R+01&Category=Electrical&subCategory=Wiring+Harnesses&CatKey=EMUSTANG
burritoboi5
03-14-2007, 09:16 AM
Got some 75 argon 25 CO2 today and just threw down a few beads. HOLY SH%T. This is an enormous improvement over flux cored. I can't wait to see how it goes later tonight or tomorw when I get a chance to weld some more. :clap:
burritoboi5
03-20-2007, 09:21 PM
Well, been a bit since I've updated. I pulled apart the dash and found some rust in the cowl, along with a very odd crack, that I'll get some pictures of eventually. Also found a guy near me that sells t-5s. But since I finally got myself some welding gas I took the opportunity to tack in the driver side inner fender. Hopefully I'll have time to get the front crossmember off and the new one on this weekend so I can do some finishing welds and then do final dissassembly of the frontend before blasting it and por-15 treatment. :batman:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0033.jpg
BlackGMC
03-21-2007, 08:12 AM
Lookin good, so how are you liking the Gas?
Carguy960
03-21-2007, 08:49 AM
Nice car, can I have your air cleaner? Trade you a chrome one!
burritoboi5
03-21-2007, 04:15 PM
Aww man the gas is AWESOME. I can actually produce half way decent welds that don't look like someone is spitting metal balls at the car. :red_indian:
About the air cleaner, sure I have no use for it since I'm gonna go EFI and a shaker. Don't really want your chrome one though.
Carguy960
03-21-2007, 07:31 PM
Email me about the air cleaner allaura@comcast.net
Welding looks like it's going good, the gas penetrates better.
burritoboi5
03-21-2007, 08:20 PM
Yeah the gas is awesome. Just did some more welding on the driver side now and took off the brace. Hopefully get it all buttoned up soonish. BTW sent you an email
burritoboi5
03-27-2007, 09:11 PM
Well, started taking out the front crossmember and damnit some previous owner welded the living hell out of it with a crappy stick job. Just globs everywhere and making it a very grinding intensive project. I really wish I had a damned cut off wheel. Hurt my hand pretty badly when the sawzall kicked me too. But hopefully I'll get the motivation to go out there and just get the piece of crap off and then I can install the pretty new one and be done with the sheetmetal replacement in the front of the engine bay.
Protowrxs
03-27-2007, 09:26 PM
Looks like you're rocking along man. Nice job!
-Stephen
BlackGMC
03-28-2007, 07:57 AM
Well, started taking out the front crossmember and damnit did the previous owner weld the living hell out of it with a crappy stick job. Just globs everywhere and making it a very grinding intensive project. I really wish I had a damned cut off wheel. Hurt my hand pretty badly when the sawzall kicked me too. But hopefully I'll get the motivation to go out there and just get the piece of crap off and then I can install the pretty new one and be done with the sheetmetal replacement in the front of the engine bay.
You can get a cut off disk for your angle grinder. I have put one on mine before and it does a very good job. Only problem is that an angle grinder spins alot faster than the cut off wheel and sometimes a cut off disk on an angle grinder will explode and send peice of the wheel everwhere. Oh and are you using a flapper type disk on your grinder when your grinding?
burritoboi5
03-28-2007, 08:26 AM
Thanks for the words of encouragement. Not exactly sure what you mean about the flapper wheel styled disc but what I'm using is just a simple solid course grit grinding wheel.
BlackGMC
03-28-2007, 09:20 AM
A flapper disc is alot better when grinding down welds, and metal. It does not gouge into the metal and it will not cause the metal to heat up and distort like a solid/stone wheel. They are available at home depot. IMO far superiour to the solid stone wheel. Ever since I bought one, I have never used a stone wheel again. The picture below is what I am talking about, except the ones I buy screw onto the grinder.
http://i5.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/8e/55/570c_1.JPG
burritoboi5
03-28-2007, 04:28 PM
Thanks for the tip. That looks pretty cool, I'll have to pick one up next time I'm near home depot.
burritoboi5
04-15-2007, 05:08 PM
been a while since an update.....but since last time I've found a rusted frame rail, decided to replace both. reorganized the garage twice, cut out the one frame rail. Built a body cart. Filled some rust holes in the body, and purchased all of my new engine parts. The new frame rail assemblies come tomorw but I fabbed in some bracing and took some measurements today so I could remove the bulk of the frame rail. Here are the updated pics.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0039.jpg
rust
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0057.jpg
body cart
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0081.jpg
new setup
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0086.jpg
bracing
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0085.jpg
is something missing?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0087.jpgframe rail alignment and bracing
BlackGMC
04-16-2007, 04:00 PM
Nice, good idea on the bracing and stuff! Did you get your new parts today?
burritoboi5
04-17-2007, 01:44 PM
Yep parts all came in yesterday. And I've spent the past three hours trying to remove the last bit of the frame rail. But the spot weld cutter I have is too small. And I don't know how the hell they ever got to welding in the inside of the frame but the damned spot welds are all over a quarter inch thick, closer to a half inch and incredibly hard to access. I've already decided the next tool is going to be a plasma cutter, just wish I had it now. Do you have any tips on how the hell I can get this to go a little easier? I've still got a whole nother side to do assuming I ever finish this one........
burritoboi5
04-17-2007, 02:01 PM
Here's what I'm dealing with.....
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0003.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0004.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0005.jpg
BlackGMC
04-17-2007, 02:51 PM
I use a small and a large drill bit. The small bit is to just start the hole then go back and make a big hole with the larger drill bit. I tried using the spot weld cutter,but it pissed me off so I just drill holes now. Once your all done go back and fill in the holes you made with weld using a flattened copper pipe ans a backing.
I feel your pain with working with the damn torque boxes, they used some heavy gauge material in those.
burritoboi5
04-17-2007, 03:04 PM
Well.....decided to say *&^% it and just bought some new torque boxes and floor supports. They hopefully will come by thursday so tomorow I will remove the right side torque box and rail and start filling holes. Thanks for the copper pipe trick. I never thought of that but it makes sense. The whole teaching myself to weld is interesting :clap:
BlackGMC
04-17-2007, 03:09 PM
Well.....decided to say *&^% it and just bought some new torque boxes and floor supports. They hopefully will come by thursday so tomorow I will remove the right side torque box and rail and start filling holes. Thanks for the copper pipe trick. I never thought of that but it makes sense. The whole teaching myself to weld is interesting :clap:
No problem, oh but be careful the pipe gets really HOT, man you just keep adding more to parts list.
burritoboi5
04-17-2007, 03:28 PM
hehe yeah....that's funny coming from "mr. they didn't do it well enough so I'm going to rebuild the entire car from the rear axles forward" :001_tongue: Which btw I was thinking about following in your footsteps.......
BlackGMC
04-17-2007, 03:55 PM
You might as well honestly it is cheaper, once you buy all the tools.... You will see where improvements can be made once you have been building it for awhile..
burritoboi5
04-18-2007, 05:43 PM
BlackGMC is a bad influence. Let's just get that out there now. My voyage to follow in his footsteps begins tomorow once I find a good metal supplier in my area. I'll be replacing the entire floor area minus tunnel and fabbing up some subframe connectors, crossmembers and general reinforcement along the same lines but not with as much class as black's. And since I'm hoping Black will read this, what do you use for cutting the heavier gauge metals? I was thinking a chop saw maybe because it's cheap but I really would like to get a plasma cutter.....just don't know if the budget can support it right now....
BlackGMC
04-18-2007, 06:15 PM
Sorry about the bad influence thing.... :devil: Oh and thanks for the compliments, but remember I am no expert or anything, just an average guy that has does 3 years of research and planning. Anyways about your question I use a compound miter saw normally used with wood but with a metal blade ($5) cause that is what I had and I use a cutt off wheel from harbor freight ($15). If you use a mitor saw it might ruin it like it did mine, basically it will never cut wood again. Whatever type of steel tubing or plate you buy don't go bigger than 1/8 wall, cause it will just add weight. For metal suppliers I use metal supermarkets, they are a little bit higher priced but you can get pieces cut to length. If there is one located around you can submit an online quote and they email you back the price, kinda handy when your in the planning stage.
where are you located? Oh an if your tunnel needs patching or replacing you can have my old one for free if you need it.
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/msc-home.aspx
If you have any questions or advice just ask, Oh and there is another guy over on StangNet named 351_swap and his project far exceeds mine and he is very knowledgable and pretty cool.
To aid in your quest here is a pic from another guys stang you might be interested in following.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r192/66mustangchris/mustang11.jpg
BlackGMC
04-18-2007, 06:24 PM
Oh and one more thing, IMO if were you I would get some Subframe connectors and try and get some Convertable Inner rocker panels and a 1 piece convertable seat pan. Those three things would really stiffen up the body and would be realitively easy to install, basically accomplish your goals without much fab work.
Oh and a driveshaft safety loop made out of round tubing, and weld the ends of it to the subframe connectors.
burritoboi5
04-19-2007, 12:53 AM
Thanks for the responses Mr. Black. I looked into the metal supermarket and found that there is one less than an hour away from me. So tomorow I'll take some measurments for what I need and see if I can head down there to pick up what I need. Also am going to try to run to homedepot to get a metal blade for the miter saw. Wouldn't you know it my pops just bought a nice new one about 6monthes ago :gunsmilie: I'm located in Connecticut btw and I appreciate your offering your tunnel but that is the one part of my car that is in good shape hahaha.
One last thing though, where did you order your rollbar from? Because that is something I definitely will need to get.
BlackGMC
04-19-2007, 08:08 AM
I ordered the roll bar from Orielly's Autoparts. It is a competition engineering main hoop #C3039A (~$60). If you order it from them you don't have to pay the freight or shipping charges which where around $110 alone. When you go to home depot for a metal/abrasive blade for the mitor saw get the thinnest one, it makes cutting the steel so much easier. Remember cutting metal with a wood mitor saw might ruin it.
burritoboi5
04-19-2007, 01:16 PM
Thanks Mr. Black. BTW what is your real name? I'm Steve. I'll be heading out to the metal supermarket in about 15 minutes to go and pickup my order. it was really easy to place, just faxed them a sheet of what I needed and they gave me a time when I could go pick it up.
I'm doing the rollcage because the only way I could do the car restoration was to either retrofit airbags, or go the cage and harness route. This being because I was in a pretty bad crash about a year and a half ago. but I think the cage is not only smart but will look and function well.
BlackGMC
04-19-2007, 01:23 PM
My real name is Corey, good luck with the metal purchase, I hope everything goes well! Good to know your name instead of being associated with "Burrito"
burritoboi5
04-19-2007, 04:48 PM
Hahah thanks corey. Well other than it being an hour away it went very well. I have all my pieces and they're all cut to size. Just faxed my order and picked it up. Plus if I had bought subframe connectors and new floor pans it would have cost me more than the materials :D So tonight I'll try to brace the car and then remove the pass floor pan.
BlackGMC
04-19-2007, 06:59 PM
Good deal, remember you gotta post lots of pics!!
burritoboi5
04-19-2007, 07:17 PM
Corey my man I gotta get some work done before I post pics.....geez :yes:
Well here are three to sum up what I got done tonight. I put in the three bars for bracing and cut out the passenger side floor pan, well most of it. The hardest thing was getting the damn car to sit level in a garage that slopes to the left. But it's level now and not going to be moved untill this bit is all wrapped up. Tomorow I will try and get both floor pans removed and drop the rearend so that I can cut out enough of the rear floor pan/torque box area to put in my crossmember. And I'm still very impressed with how cool the metal supermarket was. Everything was cut just how I wanted it :punk:
O bought a wire brush/cup for the drill today at homedepot, WOW so much faster than a grinding wheel to clean up paint for welding prep.
Ok here are the pics. BTW I have a folder on my desktop with over a 100 photos so far and am keeping a log of costs and time that goes into the car.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0006.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0007.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0008.jpg
BlackGMC
04-19-2007, 09:23 PM
lookin really good, it looks like your car is in better shape than mine when I started. Just make sure you tack things in and check it with the level several times in different places before you finish weld. You might want to weld up the final weld in small increments cause the heat from the weld will actually distort the metal.
Keep up the good work, just remember take your time measure measure measure and check with the level. Isn't this type of fabrication exciting and fun!!!!
burritoboi5
04-19-2007, 11:59 PM
Yeah, a good deal of the rust that was there has been replaced by the previous owner. I did howevr buy too large of a blade for my miter saw.....so I used the wood blade to cut the pipes.......yeah yeah not a good idea but I had eye/ear/hand protection and had been dressed to weld. Hopefully I'll be able to get a good deal of prep work done tomorow. O and my friend's dad also said I can use his shop if I need to. That means a 5 foot metal brake and cutter all professional grade because he owns an air conditioning and heating company :001_smile:
Another note is that I hit a deer on the way home tonight......3 mile trip and it's the first time I hit one.....
burritoboi5
04-20-2007, 04:42 PM
Well got a good bit of work done today. Bought a flapper style disc for the grinder and the proper type of blade for my miter saw. Both of which worked very nicely. I got the majority of both torque boxes out and cleaned up the passenger side one enough to weld in my reinforcement piece. Everything looks wierd though bc of the flash from the camera. I got both floor pans out also and found that the driver side floor pan was never welded to the front frame rail :confused1: So that must have been real safe.
Tomorow I'm aiming to get the driver side torque box area fully cleaned up, need to buy some sawzall blades, and then weld in the reinforcement plate. Once that is in welding up the crossmember comes next and then I move forward quite literally to work on the subframe connectors. School starts up on monday again though....so work will slow down I'm afraid :sad:
But here are some pics.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0010.jpg
YAY
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0013.jpg
welding
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0017-1.jpg
done welding, needs to be cleaned up though
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0019-1.jpg
All the shit that has been cut out so far today and yesterday
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0022.jpg lookin good
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0018.jpg
another view
BlackGMC
04-20-2007, 05:57 PM
Wow you work really fast, I am very impressed!!!. You should be done in no time. Keep up the good work!!
Oh word of advice, when your mocking up your crossmember, depending on the size and position of it. Remember you exhaust has to run under it so you might need to cut reliefs in the crossmember, much easier to do when it is out of the car. I wish I had done it before I welded mine in, but live and learn....
burritoboi5
04-20-2007, 06:23 PM
Hmmm never thought about exhaust..... I am gonna run dualies too which makes it double complicated but I'm also debating having it dump before the rear tires........decisions decisions. :gunsmilie:
burritoboi5
05-01-2007, 08:19 PM
Well it's been a while but I was sick and busy selling off an old project. The cam and lifters have still yet to come, and the block is still at the machine shop :bored: BUt I did manage to weld in the driver side reinforcement panel tonight and damn if the welds don't look real professional like. Slowly but surely making progress I guess :gunsmilie:
burritoboi5
05-05-2007, 03:55 PM
Hey all well I finally got some work done. Between being sick and having other excuses I finally got the rear crossmember fabricated and am very happy with how it came out. I need to shorten the top of the driveshaft loop but that should only take about 30 minutes or so. I fabbed the two large sections out of 1.5 in square stock and the large sides are 2x3 in stock. The top of the loop is just 2 in band. I put in a few beads to hold it in place and keep it level, one two on each side. One about 3 inches long the other 1.5 so it should be plenty to hold it all tight for finish welding. I also found out why you should remove the dust collector from a wood saw before using it for metal. This is the second day in a row I've started a fire while working on the car :devil2:
But anyways here are the remains,
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0041-1.jpg
Heres the crossmember out of the car and then in the car.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0042.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0046.jpg
BlackGMC
05-05-2007, 04:03 PM
Wow very impressive, I really like it!!!
I got my saw dust collector on fire too!!
Protowrxs
05-06-2007, 09:11 AM
This is the second day in a row I've started a fire while working on the car :devil2:
I think setting something on fire is a requirement anymore isn't it? I've set my pants on fire, and triggered a Estes rocket motor in the garage welding and grinding myself. Just keep the plastic gas cans FAR away from anything if you store them in your garage.
Looking good on the build!
-Stephen
Cupid
05-06-2007, 11:53 PM
Nicely done!
burritoboi5
05-07-2007, 03:48 PM
Thanks guys. I called the machine shop and I'll be picking up the block this wednesday. So that prompted me to put in yet another order to summit for some small stuff like a high flow oil pump and some electric fans so I can keep this new powerplant cool. And While I was at it I figured what the hell might as well go with an electric water pump.
So now I need to pick out a carb and intake manifold and I'll have enough to put together the entire engine.
So far everything is being updated nicely
-forged connecting rods
-forged pistons
-clevite 77 bearing set
-roller cam and lifters
-roller rockers
-Sr Windsor heads
-electric water pump and fans to lessen drag on engine
And with the electric fan and pumps I plan on wiring them so they stay on 10 minutes or so after the car is turned off to cool everything down.
Anyone have any suggestions on intake manifolds BTW??
BlackGMC
05-07-2007, 05:39 PM
Edlebrock Vic Jr.... But it really depends on your cam RPM range and if your auto your torque converter. need to pick a cam first, then match an intake and converter to that..
burritoboi5
05-07-2007, 05:48 PM
Well I'm going with this cam and I had the motor balanced with a flywheel so once I get my T-5 I'll be putting that behind it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DCL31%2D442%2D8&autoview=sku
BlackGMC
05-07-2007, 05:55 PM
Thats a pretty big cam for a 302, IMO I would get a larger LSA (lobe seperation) with a 110, that thing is going to have a nasty idle and I would try and get a 112 with the same specs.
Since your a manual and having that cam I would go with a edlebrock vic jr (single plane high rise).
burritoboi5
05-07-2007, 06:17 PM
Hehehe, this aint planned to be no grandma's car :beta1:
I figure I can get away with that cam anyways since I'm running roller lifters. And if not this car may get mini tubbed and quickly turn into a street sleeper with some giggle juice. I actually always planned on throwing the giggle at it hence the forged components. And since this is my first time I get to make stupid mistakes from time to time :cowboy:
BlackGMC
05-07-2007, 06:23 PM
Instead Comp Cams 284HR I would go with one of these
284HR 512/512 212/212 @110
or
271HR 533/533 215/215 @110
more specs
http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/64-71_230.pdf
Hehehe, this aint planned to be no grandma's car
What kinda compression are you going to be running? You will need to up it some so it moves the torque curve down a few hundred RPM so it wont be a dog during regular driving.
burritoboi5
05-07-2007, 07:55 PM
Honestly haven't calculated compression ratio yet but the 284hr is sitting in my garage so I think that's what I'll be using. I was told it would be a a good choice. Just may have to up the comp ratio and run higher octane fuel. I can live with that
BlackGMC
05-07-2007, 08:06 PM
I was not trying to talk you out of it, just givin ya options. I mention the comp ratio because bigger cam usually like more compression. you can change your compression ratio rather easily by head gasket thickness or just pulling the heads off and having them milled afterwards.
I will say this, with that cam your going to LOVE the idle!!! my bro has a similar cam on a roller motor and the idle, well it basically gives you wood when it first fires up. Oh and another thing with that cam, the springs that came with it or the ones that your going to have to run, you have to let the motor get to operating temp before laying the hammer down on it. Springs for high lift cams are brittle when they are cold, but once up to temp they are great!!
Truck
05-07-2007, 10:56 PM
new cylinder heads so I can run unleaded
Back the bus up.
I've triple-checked my car, and my coupe's dash reads "Unleaded Fuel Only". Am I wierd?
bnickel
05-07-2007, 11:34 PM
Back the bus up.
I've triple-checked my car, and my coupe's dash reads "Unleaded Fuel Only". Am I wierd?
someone add the decal. no 69 or 70 came from the factory with one of those decals, in fact i don't even think unleaded fuel came out until the mid to late 70's
Pakrat
05-08-2007, 07:43 AM
Back the bus up.
I've triple-checked my car, and my coupe's dash reads "Unleaded Fuel Only". Am I wierd?
I hate to be the one to bring it to your attention but yes, yes you are.:w00t:
burritoboi5
05-08-2007, 11:45 AM
Aw no worries. I appreciate your trying to keep me informed. I'm looking for this car to be more of a hotrod than a daily driver though so I'm tending to go a little more radical on everything. I went out last night and got some work done too.....probably won't get back out there to work untill thursday but I should be able to get a considerable amount of work done then and maybe this saturday I'll either assemble the motor or keep plugging along with the metal work. We'll jsut have to see
burritoboi5
05-09-2007, 07:03 PM
WOOOOHOOOO got my block back today :boat:
so now all I'm missing is the intake and carb which go on last anyways. So hopefully this weekend I can start getting it together. Just gonna take my time and do it right the first time.
Also when I was in the machine shop the guy there who has been helping me with the block said he just recently built one with edelbrock heads and a similiar cam ( 225 instead of 224 like mine) but otherwise a very similiar engine and it put out 400 horse. And since mine is all forged I can always make it giggle if I feel I need more power :beta1: But I think if it made 325 or more I would be happy and then I can throw a hundred shot at it.
boy.....NOS keeps coming up doesn't it? :yes:
Truck
05-11-2007, 02:20 PM
I hate to be the one to bring it to your attention but yes, yes you are.:w00t:
It's nothing new. Technically, I shouldn't even be here since my shark-nose is registered as a 68....
burritoboi5
05-11-2007, 04:42 PM
It's ok we still will let you hang out with us. Even if you jacked my thread :nono:
hehe atleast post something nice about my project :yes:
burritoboi5
05-11-2007, 07:16 PM
Well, I taped off the engine block and got it all painted so that once it is cured tomorow I can start cleaning assembly. Or so I thought.....I tried assembling the pistons heads and connecting rods but it seems they simply don't fit. I can't get the piston head bearing to fit through the damned connecting rod......How hard should this be? Should I just use more force or is it the wrong one? I would think it would fit nice and easy so I'm not going to try to force anything. I really hope there is just something wrong with my method because the machine shop I got the parts through is only open on weekdays.
O and my Sawzall broke tonight too....F*&K :mad:
Well here's a pic of the block anyways
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/block.jpg
Protowrxs
05-11-2007, 07:19 PM
So you are trying to connect the pistons to the rods with the wrist pins? If that is the case, factory wise those are press fit and require a hydraulic press to assemble. There are aftermarket floating pins (rods have been bushed or honed out) but factory are pressed.
-Stephen
burritoboi5
05-11-2007, 07:26 PM
Yeah trying to get the big silver rod in the piston through the connecting rod. And I don't have a hydraulic press...... What should I do? will a vise with some wood blocks work?
Protowrxs
05-11-2007, 07:29 PM
Yeah trying to get the big silver rod in the piston through the connecting rod. And I don't have a hydraulic press...... What should I do? will a vise with some wood blocks work?
I wouldn't.. you need to have a machine shop press them in.
Arrowhead
05-11-2007, 07:45 PM
I believe freezing the pins aids in getting them in, but they still use a press.
Pakrat
05-11-2007, 08:02 PM
Well, I taped off the engine block and got it all painted so that once it is cured tomorow I can start cleaning assembly. Or so I thought.....I tried assembling the pistons heads and connecting rods but it seems they simply don't fit. I can't get the piston head bearing to fit through the damned connecting rod......How hard should this be? Should I just use more force or is it the wrong one? I would think it would fit nice and easy so I'm not going to try to force anything. I really hope there is just something wrong with my method because the machine shop I got the parts through is only open on weekdays.
O and my Sawzall broke tonight too....F*&K :mad:
Well here's a pic of the block anyways
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/block.jpg
Not to sidetrack on your current dilema but just a heads up, I discovered when painting my components individually before reassembly that the cylinder heads don't exactly completely cover that nice neat area you obvisously masked off so once you re-attach them you will probably see some bare metal still. I ended up using my old gaskets as part of the mask off to make sure all visable areas got coated with paint, just a heads up.
burritoboi5
05-11-2007, 11:19 PM
Yeah no worries Pak, I guess I'll deal with touch up at a later point in time. I was hoping to get the engine assembled tomorow but it doesn't look like that will happen enless a friend of mine has a press, so I'll check with him tomorow morning. And then I'll go and buy a new sawzall.... The milwaukee lasted 20 years before it bit the bullet. I pulled it apart and the front drive is snapped in half.
BlackGMC
05-12-2007, 11:37 AM
Every engine I have had in my stang I had the machine shop assemble it, mine usually only costs an extra 40-50 bucks. BTW make sure you are absolutely clean and working in a clean enviroment while assembling the engine.
bnickel
05-12-2007, 01:00 PM
Every engine I have had in my stang I had the machine shop assemble it, mine usually only costs an extra 40-50 bucks. BTW make sure you are absolutely clean and working in a clean enviroment while assembling the engine.
the machine shops around here charge around $150-250 to assemble a short block IIRC. so 40-50 bucks is cheap
BlackGMC
05-12-2007, 03:12 PM
the machine shops around here charge around $150-250 to assemble a short block IIRC. so 40-50 bucks is cheap
Yeah it is cheap, plus I am really good friends with the owner and I have sent him a TON of business and so has my father. Especially my father, he has several racing buddies (circle track and drag strip). So I kinda get a discount....:devil2::devil2::devil2::devil2:
burritoboi5
05-12-2007, 09:11 PM
Well problem solved....
First off they weren't the press in type.
Second the pistons are for a stroker motor and is a special combo or somethin or another to give me a better rod angle ratio. But in the end I went back to the machine shop and they bored the connecting rods and now they fit nicely.
Tonight I cleaned the block and installed the cam and crank. I would have liked to go further but I somehow lost my cam thrust plate....so I need to wait to get that.
Anyways its going together well so far except for me constantly worrying about cleanliness and that I'll spend all this time and money and have the damned thing explode on me :nono:
Protowrxs
05-12-2007, 09:32 PM
Anyways its going together well so far except for me constantly worrying about cleanliness and that I'll spend all this time and money and have the damned thing explode on me :nono:
Don't worry, it will only explode once! :yes:
So you have some e-clips or spiral locks then that hold the pin centered correct? They basically made the rods floaters which is fine. I ran floaters in my 306 builds with the old Ford heavy duty (football head) rods. a forged Boss crank and some 12.5 TRW's back in the day. Just make sure the clips are in good as I've seen a cylinder wall where the clip broke and the wrist pin made a nice little slice.
Are you checking rod/main clearances, etc with plasti gauge, a mic, or something?
Sounds like you're having fun. I believe I'll be picking up a 347 kit this week so I'm getting close as well.
-Stephen
burritoboi5
05-12-2007, 10:23 PM
Yep, have plasti gauge and ordering a mic and degree wheel when I order my thrust plate. And the wrist pin uses spiral clips to keep it centered.
Truck
05-13-2007, 09:52 AM
hehe atleast post something nice about my project :yes:
It's only an attempted jacking. And what I've been posting is nice. I bet you're at home going, "I don't want to sound like this clueless [one], I'd better go put my block back together...fast."
It's my attempt at inspiration by negative example.
burritoboi5
05-13-2007, 03:59 PM
Haha actually working on it last time had a few more explitives when I broke the saw and when I had to drive an hour each way to the machine shop again.
burritoboi5
05-16-2007, 08:36 PM
DAMNIT...... I got all the pistons and connecting rods assembled today and got four of the pistons in. But I broke a damned compression ring. So now I have to order a whole new set. There goes 150 bucks. SOn of a B@%ch.
here's the parts number....
r-9902 30
2m-5523 030
burritoboi5
05-16-2007, 11:24 PM
sorry for the rant before, I was getting a little frustrated. Anyways I ordered a replacement ring from jegs, and it only ended up costing 11 dollars but I'm having it shipped out asap so that once I get the thrust plate from MU (hopefully tomorow) and then the replacement ring I can button up the engine and put it in the corner of the garage. O my intake manifold and degree wheel came today so other than a carb I have pretty much everything I need for the engine.
burritoboi5
05-20-2007, 01:05 PM
uh yeah..... broke the replacement ring.......bummer
Pakrat
05-20-2007, 02:15 PM
Oh man, totally.
I bet you cussed just a little bit. =(
Aw4g63
05-22-2007, 02:43 PM
Wow, the project is coming along great!
burritoboi5
05-22-2007, 04:31 PM
Thanks. It's moving along pretty well except that I'm waiting on parts still. The fuel pump ecentric came today and the piston ring comes tomorow but then I'm still waiting on the damned thrust plate. I'm gonna give them a call tomorow and see what the delay is.:beta1:
burritoboi5
05-28-2007, 07:27 PM
Okey Dokey.....Been a lil while, but I actually made some progress today. I got the cylinder heads painted but the biggest thing was fixing my previous screw up. I have put in four of the connecting rods backwards. So today I had the pleasure of removing the spiral locks from four of the pistons and reinstalling them in the correct fashion. In any case they're in there correctly now and all of the pistons are in their respective cylinders. So once the heads are dry I'll bolt them up and move forward. My thrust plate is also still backordered untill atleast this week. But I plan on picking up a sawzall this week and once the engine is together again moving right back to the metal work.
Also I was at wallymart and picked up a model of a 69 gt-500 and tried out a spray scheme on it. I want the bottom color to be a deeper blue and the top a lighter candy apple red. But it's just for fun.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0006-1.jpg
burritoboi5
06-02-2007, 03:50 PM
Well......I got the heads on today. And all the engine parts are cleaned and ready for assembly. My thrust plate finally came in so I was able to get some bolts and mount that. But then I go to install my timing set and notice I've lost my crankshaft key. Well I'll be damned if yet again a $1.95 isn't keeping me from moving forward. So I put in the order for that and hopefully it will arrive soon. :stuart:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0009.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0007-1.jpg
Pakrat
06-02-2007, 06:35 PM
What has two thumbs and likes Mustangs?
This guy!
burritoboi5
06-03-2007, 11:35 AM
HAhahahaha. Thanks pak. name is Steve, or Stevo if you're feeling playful
burritoboi5
06-05-2007, 05:58 PM
Crankshaft key came today so I slapped the timing set on and hopefully will degree the cam tonight.
But what are the opinions on one of these rather than Nitrous?????
http://www.hawkinsspeedshop.com/categories/super-chargers/products/product-145.html
BlackGMC
06-05-2007, 06:02 PM
Crankshaft key came today so I slapped the timing set on and hopefully will degree the cam tonight.
But what are the opinions on one of these rather than Nitrous?????
http://www.hawkinsspeedshop.com/categories/super-chargers/products/product-145.html
I would be pretty cool, but it really depends on the compression your running your cam.
burritoboi5
06-05-2007, 07:54 PM
BAH.... more problems.
I got the timing cover on degreed the cam, everything was going well. Then i Slid in the lifters, pushrods, and attempted to put on the rockers but either the studs are too short or the pshrods too long becuase I cant get a bolt on any of them. Also the lifter wishbones aren't working as planned. When the lifters are at the bottom of the stroke they fall off the top of the lifters and its very disconcerting........
BlackGMC
06-05-2007, 08:04 PM
That sucks man, but you will get it eventually, Look on the brightside at least you can see clearly and work on your car, unlike myself
burritoboi5
06-05-2007, 09:21 PM
Yeah you're right. Every time something on this motor doesn't go according to plan I get worried though. There is still the very real possibility that I fuck this up and blow 4-5 grand on my motor.......that would suck.
So I think what I'm going to start doing this weekend is plan a run to the metal supermarket so I can get some tubing for a roll cage and metal to make a frame for my motor. Then I'll get my bellhousing/starter and try to run it because it could be months before I get it in the car and ready to run. Any tips slash info on this idea? And no I don't have an engine dynometer.....may have access to one though.....
BlackGMC
06-05-2007, 10:02 PM
You can just coat everything down with oil and it can sit for awhile if your worried about your engine going bad, my first one sat up for awhile months before I fired it. I just poured oil over it and turned the crank every once in awhile.
or do you just wanna hear it run?
bnickel
06-06-2007, 11:04 AM
don't let sit out in the open. oil it down and cover it with a heavy duty trash bag, one of those super thick silver plastic yard bags would be great. put it on an engine stand too, it get's it up out of the way and you can store stuff under it if you need to.
burritoboi5
06-06-2007, 05:09 PM
Yeah, the idea is more that I wanna make sure it works before I go sticking it in the car. That way I can work out the kinks before it gets too hard to get my hands around it. I'm planning a run up to the metal supermarket this coming week so hopefully I can figure out this pushrod thing and get everything worked out/ready to fire within 2 weeks. That's my guess as the soonest it would be ready. I also need to pickout a carb before then, and all I know is I want 750cfm.
burritoboi5
06-06-2007, 05:36 PM
Well. Took some measurements and ordered new pushrods. Should arive by saturday and we'll see how it goes then......
BlackGMC
06-07-2007, 09:38 AM
I also need to pickout a carb before then, and all I know is I want 750cfm.
IMO 750 is way to big, especially if your using stock heads w/ stock size valves.. My bro's 302 as some worked aftermarket heads 2.02/1.60, with a pretty big cam and he tried a 750, way to big, the 650 works great and runnings great.
burritoboi5
06-07-2007, 04:38 PM
Hmm I was told 750 may be a good call with the supercharger. And the heads aren't stock theyre Sr Windsor heads by world products.
BlackGMC
06-07-2007, 07:09 PM
oh, I did not know your were going with a supercharger, I am clueless on what size to go with, but NA with those heads I still stick by on 650
burritoboi5
06-08-2007, 06:15 AM
Yeah, I agree NA I would stick with 650, I'm just thinking more air will need more fuel with the supercharger. I honestly don't know enough about it though to tell you the truth.
burritoboi5
06-13-2007, 11:40 PM
Well. For those of you that saw my other thread, I've been having some trouble with my engine rebuild on account of some machining problems. But I bought a drill press today. Hey Hey Hey. Very worthwhile investment. Maybe progress pics tomorow.....We'll see if I work on the car or not. Now that schools out I have to start working so we'll see if I have time tomorow or not for the pony. :gunsmilie:
burritoboi5
06-17-2007, 09:21 PM
Well making progress. Slowly but surely.....
New tool
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0053.jpg
New parts
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0055.jpg
newly clearanced parts
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0049.jpg
new parts in need of fitment
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0056.jpg
Newly bent in frustration
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0050.jpg
burritoboi5
06-24-2007, 06:41 PM
Hey guys. Got the motor preoblems figured out so I'll be picking that up tomorow :flowers:
And in the meantime I've welded in the front frame rail, torque box, floor support, and fabbed up the subframe connector. I still need to weld it all in underneath but am saving all the laying on my back with molten steel raining down for another day. In any case it is starting to look pretty DAMN GOOD :taz:
The subframe connectors are just capped and double gusseted for strength. Hope you all like the progress I'm making and where the hell is BLACKGMC??? eh corey???
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0880.jpg
subframe connector
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0882.jpg
Gussets and subframe in place
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0884.jpg
What it's all starting to look like
burritoboi5
06-25-2007, 07:25 PM
WHOOOOO HOOOOOOOO got my motor back today and assembled :batman:
Just awaiting a car to put it in and some small things like plugs, necks, sensors and then it should be good to go.
BEFORE
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0080.jpg
AFTER/PRESENT
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0887.jpg
Here's what $4750 dollars and a LOT of work look like. :rolleyes:
holdtherice
06-26-2007, 09:04 AM
That engine looks pretty sweet! What pistons did you go with? And manifold, I'd rather not read through all 14 pages for something that might not even be there. I wish I had half of the dedication you have to my project. I hope to have a practically new engine,tranny, and rearend in it by the end of the year. At least the body/structural side of it doesn't need much, I'd be really screwed if that was the case.
burritoboi5
06-26-2007, 12:20 PM
Yeah no worries. The rundown on the engine is as follows.
started by boring it over .030
-World products sr. windsor heads
-edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold
-Moroso electric water pump
-comp camps roller lifter
-comp cam 284 lift by 110 separation
-Lunati pushrods
-Comp cams pro street roller rockers
-stock block
-stock crankshaft
-Probe forged pistons
-Probe forged H-beam style connecting rods
-Holley 650 CFM 4 barrel double pumper
-high flow oil pump
-comp timing set
All this will be mated to a T5 with the possibility of a supercharger in the future. :gunsmilie:
burritoboi5
07-07-2007, 10:23 AM
O boy. Lost two of my storage garages so I'm busy consolidating. VERY BUSY. Making good progress though. Report back in a bit.
burritoboi5
07-07-2007, 04:49 PM
My thread is Sticky Worthy WOOT WOOT.
Thanks to whomever is responsible
burritoboi5
07-09-2007, 07:26 PM
WEll......I lost two of my garages for storage so the last few days were spent putting together a table in my garage and moving some parts over. But as far as the car goes I got the driver side framerail welded in along with radiator crossbrace and am waiting on the inner fender apron to put in the actual radiator crossmember. I also got the driver side subframe connector welded in and am in the process of acquiring some front suspension parts. Here are some pics though.
Front end
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0059.jpg
Subframe connectors
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0071.jpg
New garage setup
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0060.jpg
Convincing another stubborn frame piece :tank:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0079.jpg
burritoboi5
07-11-2007, 08:06 PM
Well....I got some more work done today. Got the inner fender in and the radiator crossmember in. Now I'm just waiting on the strut braces before I can clean and paint the front end :001_tt1: WOooHoooo
Thing is I called NPD, Mustangs Unlimited, and Virginia Classic and all said they wouldn't have strut braces untill august. So I cruised over to ebay and found some from laurel mtn mustangs and ordered em. PLus they're located in PA and should get here pretty quickly. I also ordered some new stock replacement control arms from them and a front end rebuild kit.
Tomorow I plan on calling to order my coilover suspension conversion, steering rebuild kit, and also a disc brake swap setup. Progress is coming along nicely and I am highly motivated to keep going.
here's the suspension I'm going with, called today, they are VERY NICE people and I look forward to doing business with them.
http://www.casuspension.com/pages/PRODUCTSPAGE.html
WOhooo :gunsmilie:
PS sorry the pics are kinda dark
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0101.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0102.jpg
Protowrxs
07-11-2007, 10:49 PM
The great work continues :-)
Going to be one nice Coupe when you're done.
You think you'll make any more HP over your old 2 bbl?? :devil:
-Stephen
burritoboi5
07-11-2007, 11:53 PM
Thanks for the encouragement Stephen. BTW we have the same name and you even spell it the right way.
Speaking of nice coupes you have one yourself :rockon:
I was reading back a post or two and noticed someone commend my dedication. It's funny how much work I'm putting into a car I have never even driven before :devil: Gonna be all worth it though the first time that engine fires.
And yeah it should make a little more power than the 2 bbl :devil:
burritoboi5
07-14-2007, 06:40 PM
Hey guys. Well, this morning was spent changing out the brakes on my friends nissan frontier so I wasn't able to get any work done untill later in the afternoon. But I managed to do some more structural welding underneat and get both side floor pans tacked in along with the rear middle pan. Which I decided it would just be easiest to cut out the old and weld in the new. Noticing a trend here? :gunsmilie: ANyways here are the pictures. Only thing is you have to be a damned gymnist to get in and out of the car now:pinch:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0888.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0889.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0890.jpg
BlackGMC
07-16-2007, 08:57 AM
Wow your moving right along, I have missed alot. Sorry I have been away recovering from a damn eye injury and vacation and being pissed at the car. Lookin good, I am impressed.
burritoboi5
07-16-2007, 12:11 PM
Thanks Corey. Hopefully you'll get the whole eye thing worked out soon and be back to wrenching on the stang. I'll probably post some more pictures late this afternoon bc I'm hoping to have the major floor pans tacked in and then finish weld them maybe tomorow morning. But last night I got the passenger side all finished up and the driver side cleaned up so I can actually go to work on it with fresh metal today.
BlackGMC
07-16-2007, 12:25 PM
Good deal, one piece of advice, if you have not experienced it yet, is to space out the welds that attach the floorpan to the rocker. I tried to do continous tacks/bead and I ended up with some warpage on the rocker inner panel. Maybe I just had the heat setting up too high..
Thanks about the eye thing, it is pretty much healed and I have a got my vision back, but I will have a scar on my eye for several months and the doc said to say away from welding for a few months so it does not get irritated..
burritoboi5
07-17-2007, 09:39 PM
Well....I got all of the floors done. All finish welded and sealed up woot woot. And some of my suspension parts came along with some of the brake conversion. So I started removing the rearend but it was really hard to get out so I gave in for the day. But I also managed to get the front strut braces in so after I patch one small rust area near the fuel tank and get the rearend out I can powerwash the car and por15 the undercarriage and engine bay. :tank: I'm driving to mustangs unlimited tomorow and airgas to get some more parts and some more argon. :thumbup:
burritoboi5
07-17-2007, 09:47 PM
here are some pics. sorry my online stuff is working.
Pakrat
07-18-2007, 11:18 AM
Is the floor solid enough without any beads in it?
BlackGMC
07-18-2007, 03:28 PM
I really hope you measure where your seat mount holes should be located and your seat belt holes...
burritoboi5
07-18-2007, 06:25 PM
seems like I kicked up a little bit of a shit storm here......:devil:
Sorry guys forgot to add that as of yesterday all the panels are tide together, beads all around, and that I also got the rearend out. Tomorow I'll mount up the seats. I'm gonna mount them a few inches back from stock though because I'm a pretty big guy.
BlackGMC
07-19-2007, 01:45 PM
I'm gonna mount them a few inches back from stock though because I'm a pretty big guy.
Sounds likes a plan, are you using stock seats? If so the stockers sit on a 10-12 degree angle, just incase you wanted to know.
burritoboi5
07-19-2007, 05:12 PM
For now Im using the stock seats with some stock pans. But I think I'll be figuring out something to decrease the overall height because my head is only inches from the roof.
burritoboi5
07-19-2007, 09:03 PM
Both seats have rails mounted now. Driver side pan is in and por-15 on the driver side. Hopefully tomorow get the pass side in and some minor rust repair fixed in the rear then paint the rest of the interior. Pics to come tomorow night.
burritoboi5
07-20-2007, 08:55 PM
Well got everything cleaned up today and pressure washed. Had to buy a new pressure washer but 3000psi sure as shit strips grime off really nicely. I also started shaving the door handles and hope to paint the underbody/interior tomorow and hopefully get the rearend completely cleaned and painted, maybe even finish shaving the one door.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0899.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0900.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0902-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0903.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0904.jpg
burritoboi5
07-21-2007, 08:26 PM
Hey all. Well today we got a bunch done. My pops finished off the brakes on the rearend.
For me my day started by painting the frontend and interior metal with por-15. I'll paint the underside soon within a few days but I want the car on jackstands for that. In the meantime though while the paint was drying we stripped both the doors chemically.
Then once the por-15 was dried I installed the seats. Pretty cool. :gunsmilie:
Then moved on to finish shaving the driver side door. And I did a little bondo work to make it acceptable before primering it. Then I replaced the hinge bushings, which did not fit AT ALL. They were .05 inches off from stock......even freezing the bushings and trying to press them in only ended in a broken bushing. So that will hopefully come in soon. But I drilled and filed the hinge so that it would fit and then proceeded to hang the door by myself......now that's a challenge for ya. Anyways I know what everyone wants and that's pics so here they are.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0906.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0905.jpg
The pic below shows Por-15s metal prep product. AWESOME STUFF :001_tt1:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0914.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0907.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0909.jpg
Damn I look good in this car hahaha :gunsmilie:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0911.jpg
where's the handle at?:tt2:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0918.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0917.jpg
burritoboi5
07-22-2007, 08:12 AM
Whoa.....new section on the forum threw me off a bit there :D
Pakrat
07-22-2007, 03:21 PM
You sure are making some progress this summer tacoman32587, good job! Are those fox body seats? They look like they are up a little high.
burritoboi5
07-22-2007, 06:22 PM
haha thanks man. ABout the seats. I have no idea what they're from. They came with the car but the stock replacement seat mounts didn't line up so they could be non-original.
Pakrat
07-22-2007, 07:00 PM
They look right at home but definitely double check your steering wheel with them if you are keeping them as there may not be much thigh room for getting in and out by the looks of it.
bnickel
07-22-2007, 07:42 PM
those are GM G-body seats like from a 80's cutlass i think. they are almost identical to the seats in the 83 hurst olds my brother is getting.
burritoboi5
07-22-2007, 08:05 PM
Hmmm....well so long as they fit I don't really mind. I think that when I reapolster them though I will be shaving down the foam and putting in something thinner and denser. though anyways.
burritoboi5
07-23-2007, 06:00 PM
Hey all. Well......I got the passenger door shaved and hung and also painted the underbody with por-15.
POR-15 is some aweful stuff. I have it all over my arms from when I sprayed the car and then I tried applying it with just goggles but it dripped onto my chin/neck....so I thought I could use the Por-15 solvent to get it off. Let me just say that, that stuff burns more than paint stripper. So after rummaging in the kitchen I found some vinegar that I thought may help counteract it. After that I went balls to the wall with a full mask and hooded sweatshirt. Which was good because more por-15 did in fact drip on the mask.
Afterwards I thought I could clean off the mask with solvent.....WOops. Within 10 seconds the mask started falling apart......my bad.....nasty stuff.....
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0919.jpg
In any case though the other door is on now and the entire car is protected.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0924.jpg
I also started cleaning the rearend a little just to see what kind of results I could expect.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0932.jpg
burritoboi5
07-25-2007, 06:25 PM
Hey all. Got some work done yesterday and today but had not had a chance to post yet.
Yesterday I was able to get the rearend cleaned up and installed. new leafs, bolts, brakes, and urethane bushings. I also painted and dropped in the fuel tank. It's red on top black on the bottom. And I stenciled in FUEL in black lettering, I like how it looks. I also put in the steering column and box.
Today I cleaned up and installed the steering linkage and what remains of the suspension minus my coilover kit which I hopefully will have by the end of next week. I then moved on to install the disc conversion kit.
So tomorow I hope to get the master cylinder in, and then I'm waiting on the hard lines from mustangs unlimiited at which point I can plumb the braking system. So in the meantime I may deal with plumbing the fuel system and putting in the rear seat.
Heres the rearend
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0933.jpg
Some rearend parts
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0934.jpg
And some wheels on the car :gunsmilie:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0935.jpg
I'm having some trouble getting more pictures of the frontend to upload but I'll work on that later.
burritoboi5
07-26-2007, 07:35 AM
Got the photo upload to work. And here she is. looks good doesn't it :smartass:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSCN0943.jpg
BlackGMC
07-26-2007, 10:27 AM
It looks real good, except it think your missing your springs and shocks..... Just kidding, keep up the good work!
burritoboi5
07-26-2007, 12:40 PM
everyone's a comedian :tt2:
burritoboi5
07-26-2007, 07:31 PM
Well...having trouble with uploading again but I got most of the fuel system mounted as far as the hardlines go, and did some brake work, moutned booster/master/pedal, also mounted throttle pedal. And I'm hoping to finish up the fuel system tomorow. Then my brake lines and other suspension parts are supposed to come this coming week so I should have those on before I have to go away to school. Then planning on dropping in the engine and trans this october when I have a weekend home. I need to order my trans and headers before then though.
What headers should I get? It's a manual steering 302 with a T5. Any suggestions?
BlackGMC
07-30-2007, 05:13 PM
What headers should I get?
The only suggestion I can give is get ceramic coated headers to help keep the under hood temps down and help with exhaust flow.
burritoboi5
07-30-2007, 07:37 PM
cool, I'll look into that. I don't want to spend too much cash on them thought but we'll see what is offered.
burritoboi5
08-11-2007, 11:11 PM
Hey everybody. Been away on a family vacation to maine for the past week. So no progress was made on the mustang.
However when I got home today my new suspension kit was waiting for me. I was thinking of waiting to install it untill tomorow since I drove over 400 miles today but didn't want to wait.
The first thing I did was bleed the brake lines, then I moved on to install the coilover conversion.
I got it from Mr. D at California Performance Alignment and all I can say is WOW :yes: I have had many conversations with CPA about my particular application and after sending them some measurements and telling them what I would be using it for they sent me a kit engineered just for my car. And it was a dream to install. Took about the same amount of time that it took me to bleed the brakes. Literally that easy.
So now the mustang is rolling on its own four wheels for the first time in a long time and dang if she aint pretty. :boat:
I need to get some miscelaneous bolts and hardware tomorow and wont adjust ride height untill I have the engine in but the car is starting to look like a car again.:gunsmilie:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0003-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0005-1.jpg
bnickel
08-12-2007, 02:40 AM
looks good. so i assume you were happy with my recommendation? thanks for being the giunea pig for the rest of us.:beta1:
burritoboi5
08-12-2007, 07:13 AM
I'm very happy with the setup and definitely reccomend it to everyone else.
Pakrat
08-12-2007, 11:17 AM
Looks good.
So where in Maine were you exactly?
burritoboi5
08-12-2007, 01:29 PM
We were up in Bar Harbor near Acadia national park. Really nice area.
Back to the pony car though. I got some more done this morning. I started off welding in a crack in the cowl from a collision before I owned the car. I just ended up welding in a small strip and am happy with how it looks. (strong)
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0009-1.jpg
Then I bolted on some of the front sheetmetal well almost all of it, just enough so I can move it around and see how it looks. And damn it looks MEAN....:beta1:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0014.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0025-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0023.jpg
One happy camper
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0017-2.jpg
And all those damn civics will ever see.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0011.jpg
Oh, and can someone tell me if I have the wrong bumper or wrong brackets...because this shit aint right.....
Pakrat
08-12-2007, 06:58 PM
Sounds fun, I'm just down the coast from there in NH.
No way to tell if you have the correct bumper brackets from these angles but something aint right. The inner arm seems to be holding it at the right spot but the outer ones seem crooked, it should be inside the bumper and I don't see the tab on your headlight bucket which would probably correct the angle.
burritoboi5
08-12-2007, 10:53 PM
ok, I'll hit it with a hammer tomorow.
burritoboi5
08-14-2007, 12:09 AM
Well. Went up to mustangs unlimited today and picked up a shelby styled side exhaust, some CAT headers and an off road H-pipe. Along with some other smaller stuff i.e. water fittings, hoses, engine mounts, adhesive and seam sealer. So tomorw I'll try to finish up some cowl repairs then hopefully finish off my seat mounts so I can move to sealing the floor and laying down sound proofer. Also ordered my trans today from modern driveline. Went wih the 450 hp package.
Most of the day was spent driving though or fabbing a light bar for my friend's frontier. I'll post some progress pics tomorow assuming the technology cooperates.
bswor
08-14-2007, 05:11 AM
Glad to see you making some progress and of course the fun part is picking up all those new shiny parts!
burritoboi5
08-14-2007, 07:02 PM
haha yeah its nice to go and get some clean new parts.
Today I was able to make some brackets and mock in the new radiator (it's for a big block car) I also mounted up my electric fan and checked for clearance.
Then made seat mounts for the rear seat and used some seam sealer on the entire floor pan area.
Did some rust repair on the upper cowl/windshield mount area and am pleased to say that is the end of the rust repair.
So tomorow I plan on doing some touchup painting, mount some accessories on the engine and maybe one other small task before I clean out to garage and pack everything up untill october.
I leave for school this friday so tomorow is going to be my last day to get some work done.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0026.jpg
burritoboi5
08-17-2007, 04:24 PM
Hey all. Well....Mustang progress is done untill october. As of now..... the car has
-suspension
-fuel
-brakes
-structural work done.
I cleaned up the garage for the last time and hung some body panels on the car so that the garage will have more space come winter time.
As of now though a lot of progress has been made since I started and I know I certainly learned a lot. Hopefully come christmas the car will fire and then summer I can get it on the road. I spun the oil pump on the block and rotated it a few times before duct taping any holes over and sealing it up in plastic. Here are some pictures of it as I left it.
The WHIP
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0061.jpg
The Tools
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0063.jpg
Shop helpers
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0057-1.jpg
burritoboi5
08-19-2007, 04:46 PM
no comments???? jeez tough crowd
bswor
08-19-2007, 07:00 PM
Sounds like a plan! I bet your family is glad you cleaned the garage up and got those "damn mustang parts" out of the way.... Oh wait thats mine that usually says that. At least for now you could just push it and Ghost Ride.. the whip.:scooter:
It feels good to make progress and heres looking forward to future completion bro!
And maybe people are just overlooking the progress forum? I know i missed your original update :turned:
bnickel
08-19-2007, 07:06 PM
looking good. i've been so busy with mine the last couple of weeks i haven't been able to spend much time on the board, but it's done other than a few bugs to work out, the ps pump decided to fry yesterday and i do mean fry, it got so hot it boiled the paint off the pump, my headlight switch is jicky and has to be in just the right spot for the headlights and taillights to work and the tranny isn't wanting to shift into 3rd for some reason, i think it's the vacuum modulator though, so that will hopefully take care of it. the car still needs to be buffed and waxed, so no pics yet.
burritoboi5
08-19-2007, 11:49 PM
Hahhaha ghost riding the whip. My roomate will love that one.
Yeah Bnickel I've been reading up on your plumbing/car problems. Just be sure to get us some pics asap bud. Up here all the cars I'm seeing are students in CRV's and camrys who think theyre the latest and greatest because they're sophmores. :beta1: college
bnickel
08-20-2007, 02:13 AM
Hahhaha ghost riding the whip. My roomate will love that one.
Yeah Bnickel I've been reading up on your plumbing/car problems. Just be sure to get us some pics asap bud. Up here all the cars I'm seeing are students in CRV's and camrys who think theyre the latest and greatest because they're sophmores. :beta1: college
well believe it or not we had everything ready to go to the show on saturday but it was raining so we didn't bother to buff it or anything and as we were doing the final checks before we put it on the road the ps pump decided to lock up so that ended the day, we did go to the show, just without the car. i'm guessing the car didn't want to be driven in the rain that day. anyone who says cars don't have feelings has never owned a classic before. LOL
oh yeah, i'll have pics later this week once i rest up some and get out and actually get it buffed and waxed.
burritoboi5
08-20-2007, 09:01 AM
hehehe, yessir I couldn't agree with you more. But that's what makes them so appealing to me is their personality. I'll be looking forward to seeing those pics once you get her all waxed and shined up.
Was wondering if I could get your guys opinion on something. I'm trying to figure out what seat type I have and am beginning to think they are 69 mach 1 seats, what do you think?
Mach 1 style
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=MC69BLK+01
My seats
http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=2485&page=16
bnickel
08-20-2007, 04:33 PM
like i said already, they are GM G body seats, foem a cutlass, monte carlo, regal or something like that.
burritoboi5
08-26-2007, 12:11 AM
no progress on the car since I'm still at school :D But I have started playing online poker and won 55 cents in my first game tonight so I think I'm doing pretty well hahaha
russ69coupe
08-26-2007, 03:44 PM
I was wondering if you could do me a favor and tell me what size lumber you used on your body dolly(size and length of the pieces), and where it is attached to the car? I need to make one, and yours looks as good as any. Getting under my car right now to measure things is a problem, but I will be pulling the car out of the garage so I can organize the garage, and that would be a great time for me to put the car on a dolly, if I have it already built.
Thanks,
Russ
burritoboi5
08-27-2007, 11:48 AM
hmmmmmmm lemme think here.......I'm actually at college right now but my dad is going to meassure for me when he gets home tonight. And if you're in the area you can just have mine for free......
burritoboi5
08-27-2007, 05:01 PM
Ok the measurments on it are 44inches in front by 53 in the rear, and the sides are of length 59inches. I used casters that I think are rated for 400 or 500lbs each and they were fine.
Aw4g63
08-29-2007, 10:14 AM
Nice progress man. I haven't touched my car all summer. Haven't had any time. :(
burritoboi5
08-29-2007, 08:45 PM
Thanks man. My mom called today and said my crank pulley came in the mail so now I guess I'm just waiting on my trans to ship.
russ69coupe
08-30-2007, 12:11 AM
Thanks for the info. Hopefully I can get one going soon.
Where is the dolly located? if you really don't want yours anymore I would happily take it if it is near here (Akron Ohio).
Thanks,
Russ
burritoboi5
08-30-2007, 12:54 PM
yeah problem is it's in CT.....just thought if you were gonna be in the area, but it shouldn't take long to make one yourself, only takes about 25-30 min.
russ69coupe
08-30-2007, 03:55 PM
CT huh. Well I might be going to Stamford for job training if I get a job I interviewed for yesterday, but I doubt if I could bring the dolly on the plane back. :-)
I am going to see if I can splurge and buy the material this weekend to build one. I really appreciate the measurements!
Russ
burritoboi5
08-30-2007, 04:18 PM
Hey man no worries about the measurements. and good luck with the job.
burritoboi5
09-12-2007, 10:59 AM
My trans came a few days ago :D Looks like over october break 12th-17th I will be assembling the trans and getting the engine in, then putting on exhaust and seeing if I can wire it up enough to get it to crank :D Fingers crossed boys...fingers crossed.......I've got about 5k in this engine.......
bnickel
09-12-2007, 02:28 PM
good luck and keep us posted
burritoboi5
09-12-2007, 03:49 PM
Thanks b nickel, will do
unfrozen1969
09-23-2007, 07:26 AM
I have enjoyed reading your thread, let me know of the challenges you have been facing. I have a coupe under the thread "to build or not to build", and would love some insights..
Bill from Canada
burritoboi5
10-05-2007, 12:37 PM
6 More days and we get to get some work done on her WOOOHOOO:scared:
Question? for those of you with T-5 swaps how many have had to modify their driveshafts? 8.8 rearend
burritoboi5
10-14-2007, 03:56 PM
Shit......I got the engine in and the tranny all filled and in.....wired it......at 1:30 am last night it ran I shut it down after a few seconds and waited till today....Then I get it running to break it in.....and it dies....fucking thing is seized....I think the oil pump broke bc the shaft wont spin........so in a few weeks ill come home again and pull the engine.....shit shit shit....I'm investing in my own engine hoist now.
bswor
10-15-2007, 07:38 AM
Well #$%^ sorry to hear it man.
burritoboi5
10-16-2007, 02:06 PM
Thanks guys.....I'll get it up and running again. I think I am going back in either two weeks or three. I'll probably source out the engine to my machine shop and have them take a look and break it in on their dyno. Good news is I got my 71 honda running like a champ. Just needs new vacuum advance/fuel pump/tank and to rebuild the master cylinder then it should be on the road again.
burritoboi5
10-26-2007, 04:43 PM
I honestly have been thinking about this all week and can't figure out what exactly went wrong. I spoke with my machine shop today and they have no idea either. So I'm hoping I can go home next weekend and pull the engine and have them tear it down...........
bnickel
10-26-2007, 11:04 PM
I honestly have been thinking about this all week and can't figure out what exactly went wrong. I spoke with my machine shop today and they have no idea either. So I'm hoping I can go home next weekend and pull the engine and have them tear it down...........
good luck, hope they get it sorted out for ya and under warranty.
Protowrxs
10-27-2007, 10:06 AM
I guess you primed the oil pump, etc then before firing? Bummer.
Good luck for round 2 :-(
My biggest fear on builds was always cam break in. Going roller this time around though :-)
-Stephen
burritoboi5
10-28-2007, 10:43 AM
I guess you primed the oil pump, etc then before firing? Bummer.
Good luck for round 2 :-(
My biggest fear on builds was always cam break in. Going roller this time around though :-)
-Stephen
Yep Primed and everything.....The shop will get it all sorted out for me though and hopefully I can get it all back together by xmas/turkey day.
burritoboi5
11-04-2007, 03:53 PM
Just got back to school. I got the engine out of the car and to the machine shop. And over thanksgiving I'm going to get to watch it run on the dyno :D No word on what went wrong yet though.
bnickel
11-05-2007, 06:12 PM
Just got back to school. I got the engine out of the car and to the machine shop. And over thanksgiving I'm going to get to watch it run on the dyno :D No word on what went wrong yet though.
cool, keep us in the loop
burritoboi5
11-20-2007, 02:16 PM
Yeah......so about that........Just got off the phone with my machinist.....and apparently I screwed up a few little things that blew everything up.......First thing was I used too small of a washer on the cam gear and the pin came out. From there everything went crazy and I ended up compressing a rod and cracking/puncturing the block inside. Which explains why coolant came out of the crank bolt holes......So in any case it's all rebuilt with a new block and I'll probably go pick it up and see it run this friday or saturday......SH!T :asshole:
bnickel
11-20-2007, 02:22 PM
ouch!!!!! that's the first i've ever heard of something like that before though.
burritoboi5
11-26-2007, 12:09 PM
HEy everybody. I went to my machinists' house today to see my new engine run on his dyno. I needed a crank regrind, new block, 4 new rods, some other parts. All together this washer cost me about a grand....there goes paint lol..... In any case, everything is housed in a modern roller cam block that's bored 30 over. New cam with 234 lift. My carb was too big so I'm going to be running a 600 cfm dbl pumper. On the dyno the engine made 335hp at 6000rpm and 326 ft lb trq at 4600 rpm. All of this was done with my headers and everything. Here's the cool part, it ran better/more power with my cheapo headers and knockoff HEI than it did with my machinists "magic headers" and a pro MSD unit. SWEET. The 13th of december I go to pickup my new engine and old block so I can post some picture then. At that point I wire the car,take care of clutch pedal, get the drivshaft cut,put in a windshield and I'm ready to get it on the road :scared:
Pakrat
11-26-2007, 01:11 PM
You are of suprisingly good spirits after all this, good for you man. If I was kyboshed by a washer like that I'd be out getting drunk and in fights, lol.
So that $50 roll on paint job must be sounding good about now eh?
bnickel
11-26-2007, 05:35 PM
You are of suprisingly good spirits after all this, good for you man. If I was kyboshed by a washer like that I'd be out getting drunk and in fights, lol.
So that $50 roll on paint job must be sounding good about now eh?
i found some duplicolor truck and van spray paint that is a prefect match for acapulco blue that i'm seriously considering using on the cougar, i will be using it on the jambs and in the trunk and under the fenders and stuff so that will save me a bunch of money on getting it painted. we painted the roof of the porsche 944 my buddy got his son and it held up great, too bad the boy totalled it after 3 weeks
burritoboi5
11-26-2007, 07:31 PM
Hahhaa yeah the duplicolor is looking more and more promising. I'm thinking a nice light red to hid all the dents and bodywork :biggrin:
burritoboi5
11-26-2007, 08:43 PM
I guess I'm in such a good mood for a few reasons.
1.- only two weeks left until the semester is over and I get a 4.5 week break to work on the cars
2.- I know it will all work out in the end and learning as I go is just part of the process
SELLERSRODSHOP
11-27-2007, 01:00 AM
had a similar thing happen years ago when i started up the cleveland motor in the orange 68. it ran like a champ for about 5 mins. then quit. set everything back at TDC & tried again & again to no avail. finally set everything back at TDC again & spun it thru with the dist cap off & for each run thru 8 cylinders, the rotor would move about 6. seems the hot shot behind the parts counter gave me a windsor dist. supposedly the dist is close enough to fit, but the gear is a different diameter & it chewed up the dist gear & the cam gear. had to tear it down & start over. luckily, crane covered the cam & lifters under warranty, but had to throw a fit at the parts house, as all they wanted to do was swap the dist gear. ended up raising my voice a little & after they saw customers were listening & leaving, decided to give me the correct dist. also made them give me a gasket set for the teardown. that was in my younger, fiestier days ! lol!
jkskinsfan
11-27-2007, 10:06 AM
"Hahhaa yeah the duplicolor is looking more and more promising. I'm thinking a nice light red to hid all the dents and bodywork" :biggrin:
"LIGHT RED", like in PINK? :whistling:
burritoboi5
11-27-2007, 11:29 AM
Well Pink but only if I can put flowers on it too :D
I meant to say bright red, not like a dark candy apple or anything with too much depth. BTW do you primer first with the duplicolor?
bnickel
11-28-2007, 03:03 AM
Well Pink but only if I can put flowers on it too :D
I meant to say bright red, not like a dark candy apple or anything with too much depth. BTW do you primer first with the duplicolor?
pink with flowers? Mopar had something like that back in the early 70's, it was called the mod top and was available in several colors, pink being one of them to go with the panther pink color they offered.
http://www.mooresmopars.com/modregistry.html couldn't find the pink version
they also offered a gator skin top as well
http://www.scatpack.com/gatorgrain/gatorgrain.html
burritoboi5
11-28-2007, 07:23 AM
That's pretty cool. I actually do like how the gator skin looks on a silver mopar though. More so than I do some of the plain canvas :shifty:
SELLERSRODSHOP
11-28-2007, 10:13 AM
Well Pink but only if I can put flowers on it too :D
no flowers, you have to go modern.... "hello kitty" accessories are where it's at!!!:yes:
bnickel
11-28-2007, 11:51 AM
That's pretty cool. I actually do like how the gator skin looks on a silver mopar though. More so than I do some of the plain canvas :shifty:
hmm, gator skin top on a silver stang huh? that might looks pretty good and it would definitely be diferent
bnickel
11-28-2007, 11:54 AM
no flowers, you have to go modern.... "hello kitty" accessories are where it's at!!!:yes:
as if flowers weren't bad enough!!!!!!!! don't encourage him. actually i bet nobody on here has the courage to put a "mod-top" on a stang anyway, i sure as hell don't.
actually a certain lime gold fastback might look good with a green mod-top :shifty: :whistling:
burritoboi5
11-28-2007, 12:48 PM
actually a certain lime gold fastback might look good with a green mod-top :shifty: :whistling:
I concur :blink:
Pakrat
11-28-2007, 01:19 PM
Calling all squads, calling all squads, be on the lookout for a Limegold Mustang in the vecinity.
http://www.chezgrae.com/modsquad/images/indexbluesky.jpg
bnickel
11-28-2007, 01:31 PM
as long as you don't start pulling out an old Police Story or hawaii 5-0 pics we'll be good. the mod squad is kinda pushing it though. keep the berretta and Kojak pics to yourself ok, buddy.
burritoboi5
11-29-2007, 08:09 AM
Well, nobody can say us youngins don't have interest in the hobby :D BTW cement works VERY well to pull oil out of a garage floor before an angry parent sees it
Hahah yep, I've posted this somewhere else too. I keep a 15 gallon garbage can full of it in my garage for when I need it. :tongue:
Pakrat
11-29-2007, 09:14 AM
Lol, enjoy having a discussion with yourself BB?
You actually posted that here, in this thread, word for word on page one. Jordan appears to be a very clever spam bot hawking the links in his sig. Apparantly it goes to a thread, copies like the 5th or 6th post as his own and moves on. Click on his name and check his other posts, he copied Bnickel in another one of all people.
Yo B, show this poser the door will ya?
burritoboi5
12-01-2007, 06:47 PM
Hmmmmm my bad. I knew it sounded intelligent and he seemed very good looking. :shifty:
burritoboi5
12-15-2007, 12:55 AM
Hey all. I'm back home now and have some time to work on the car. I get the new engine in and mounted the hydraulic clutch master/slave cylinders and need to fab up a pedal assembly tomorow, then I'll move to wiring the car. Pics tomorow maybe, but it's late and I'm tired.
burritoboi5
12-17-2007, 12:05 AM
No pics yet but the car is progressing..... I have the throttle linkage figured out a little better now. And I installed the pass side header. Ended up finishing up my clutch pedal today and decided I wasn't happy with it so I'm starting over. Hopefully have it worked out by tomorow, then I can move onto exhaust then wiring. I need to get my driveshaft shortened an inch and a half too but better too long than too short. I'll get some pics once I get this whole clutch thing figured out......... It's pissing me off, I've tried three different setups and have probably 14 hours invested.....mmk end of rant I'll get it figured out tomorow.....
burritoboi5
12-22-2007, 07:18 AM
Here are some shots of what's been done. I'm working primarily on wiring the car now. But the clutch is done, and once I get my d-shaft back I can take it for a test drive.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0101-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0094.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0087-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0097.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0078.jpg
bnickel
12-22-2007, 05:15 PM
looking good bro, bet you're getting anxious to get it done huh?
burritoboi5
12-23-2007, 04:05 PM
Hahah yeah, definitely getting anxiuos. I should have the wiring done before I head back to school though, which means come spring break time I can pop in a windshield and get her on the road ! I have my switchboards in and my headlights almost completely wired, then I move onto wiring the dash followed by tail section. Also having some alternator problems, car is only making 11.5 volts but I think it's because I am using an old voltage regulator, I'll find out wednesday as well as get the parts I need for the headlights and finish that up.
705.0Merc
12-23-2007, 07:27 PM
The car is coming along nicely. I like the subframe connectors, they look strong. I need to do that to my car!
burritoboi5
12-24-2007, 11:45 AM
Thanks Merc, the subframe connectors are stolen from Corey aka GMC and I love em. I am going to redo my driveshaft loop again though for the third time because I don't like it.
Got the headlights wired and working, still waiting on the plug connector for the brights.
Replaced the voltage reg and that solved the alternator problem.
Wired up the line lock and that works.
All that's left under the hood is to connect the brights and throw on an aircleaner, both I should have on weds. So today I'm going to sand and paint the hood in primer. I need to figure out gauge wiring too Grrrr
bnickel
12-24-2007, 12:39 PM
ughh, i hate wiring gauges especially but i pretty much hate wiring anything but most stuff i can do ok, gauges suck though.
705.0Merc
12-24-2007, 01:00 PM
I followed GMC's thread for the subframe connectors first, i have it bookmarked for when I'm ready. I'm just dreading trying to get everything level,square,plum etc. I haven't seen any bolt in or weld in subframe connectors anywhere near the strength of the ones you guys are doing. How much did the square tubing run you?
Wiring takes too much patience, one wire at a time.....The worst part no one will see most of it after everything goes back together.
burritoboi5
12-24-2007, 05:52 PM
Hmmm cost on the materials.....well steel prices were up from when I bought it. But at the time I bought the two subframe connectors, 12 feet of 1.5x1.5 square tubing, 36 sq feet of 18 gauge, and some 2x4 for my rear crossmember, all in all it was $244, but I would guess you can get the two connectors relatively cheaply, somewhere under a hundred bucks.
burritoboi5
12-27-2007, 06:39 PM
Well every body.....got my driveshaft in today....it fits....I did the 40$ paint job today too. Red body, flat black hood and wheels. Tomorow test drive if the weather is nice.....fingers crossed......
bnickel
12-27-2007, 09:16 PM
sweet but TTIWWOP
burritoboi5
12-28-2007, 12:34 AM
I'll try to make up for it with a vid later today....like 12 hrs maybe more if I run outa time. :scared:
burritoboi5
12-29-2007, 12:31 AM
Ok OK..... I know I promised a vid.....but I got distracted today.
In any case, the fenders/body is back on the car and part of my order from Virginia Classic came in. So tomorow I can get back to work on wiring/seatbelts/hood scoop. Well maybe not tomorow because I have some other stuff to do all day.
I do have footage of the car in motion....but no cable for the Comp to CAmcorder so I'll try to borrow a friends tomorow or the next day. But I got in a test drive today and it was awesome. Got some thumbs up from some guys pruning trees on our street.
The clutch was a bit tight at first but it's feeling a lot better now. And I stalled a few times before I realized that I was trying to shift at 1300 rpm and even though the car sounded like it was blazing, that it actually wasnt and that I just dont have any mufflers :tongue_smilie:
I need a posi now though for my 8.8 anyone have one from a 9 inch with 28 splines? I say I need one because I had no trouble spinning one tire and putting the car sideways in second gear. This new engine is friggin awesome.
Here are some teaser pics for mister Bnickel with a video to follow soon I hope.
So Many SWITCHes
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0105.jpg
Before Paint
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0107.jpg
During Paint
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0113.jpg
Engine Bay with aircleaner
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0118.jpg
AND..... after a 30$ paint job......
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0114.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/burritoboi5/DSC_0117.jpg
It looks pretty good from 20-30 feet so it should get me through the summer then I'll have it professionally done next winter/fall when I'm at school.
I'm pretty pleased with how things are coming along, feel free to post comments and suggestions.
Cheers.
bnickel
12-29-2007, 03:54 AM
oh man i wish i had a scanner. that looks almost exactly like my car looked in high school, it had a homegrown red paint job with a flat black hood and black GT wheels with no hub caps, so the effect was almost exactly the same. trippin!!!!
looks good BTW
Pakrat
01-02-2008, 09:39 AM
What in the world could all those switches possibly be hooked up to!??!??!??!?!:scared:
burritoboi5
01-02-2008, 11:41 AM
Hahahaha o wouldn't you like to know :shifty:
The top row is
-ignition
-fan
-fuel
-water
-accessory
Bottom row is
-lights
-high beams
-line lock power
-bootleg lights (kills the tails)
-hazards
I'll probably move the lights/.high beam to stock switch and add a starter kill switch hidden somewhere but untill then this is how its setup.
Pakrat
01-02-2008, 01:11 PM
That's just kooky man. One hell of a way to substitute for heat and sounds. Or does a hidden radio come on with the light switch and the high beam one changes stations?
Was that your brain child or was it wired that way when ya got it?
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