RevHeads 70 Coupe Build

[Fordrevhead]

Alright, finally starting a Project Thread! Some of this will be redundant from some garage posts I have made... but here it can be in one thread with progress to come.

5901
Here's my car before I bought it. Here it is being stripped down at a local body shop. PO was going to have a Rousch Racing Powered Resto Mod made.

5902
Here's how I bought it, a year or so later after PO went to jail, shop took the title due to mechanics lien, etc... long story.

5903
Some of the $6k in parts that came with it.

5904
Here I am beginning to layout the rotisserie this Fall

5905
Rotisserie coming together

[Fordrevhead]

5906
Rotisserie complete, rear axle and front steering and suspension removed and car mounted.

5907
Test run with Garden Tractor for outside sand blasting.

5909
Drivers Torque Box worse spot on car.

5910
Close up... going to replace front floor support and rear front floor support as well.

5911
Passenger side may have been replaced once cant tell, going to sandblast, and reweld a few places.

[Fordrevhead]

5912
Passenger Quarter... I spotted some rivets on the lower rear, which I drilled out. Inspecting the rest of the quarter I thought it was original. I took a wild guess after running my hand along the lower section and whollah I was dead on, a poor partial replacement. Looks like they tried to retain the original indent on the original quarter and perhaps didnt want to deal with the outer wheels house and trunk drop off interface. I will buy a partial with the proper indent and a new trunk drop off and do it right.

5913
One hole on the outer wheel house in the lower front of that passenger side as as well. Weird that the drivers torque box is the bad one but the passenger lower quarter is the bad one.

5914
The rest of the frame, trunk and rear torque boxes are nice.

5915
One small hole in the drivers trunk drop off as well.

5916
Drivers Tower cracked and one rusty spot (due to cracking). Beginning a fix here. Going to do some hand made Motorsport Bracing as well.

[Fordrevhead]

5917
and the typical fender apron and battery tray repair begun as well.

I cant sandblast outside because it's 11 degrees and we have a foot of blowing snow, but hopefully I can make some progress nonetheless.

I have begun a lot of areas because I need a better idea of what replacement metal to buy. Another weekend or two and I should be ready to make a big order.

Some of the factory welds on this car are horrible. I spent a day and about 4 cut off wheels cleaning up crap on the interior. The rear seat separator on one side had about 10 mig weld blobs that completely missed the edge (by like 1/2") on both the speaker deck and the inner wheel house flange. So it was dangling there. I literally ground and air chiseled two welds off the floor board and it came off. I cleaned all the old welds off on the bench and I'm going to redo that.

Need a tank of 30Mix for the welder this week.

[BAdass70]

looks pretty awesome what are the plans for it? im building a 70 grande...

[Fordrevhead]

Thanks.

Well, resto-modish... figure it out as I go really. I'm not going to go too crazy. For New England it's a pretty clean car. Even though it's not a highly desirable big block mach 1 or anything, I dont want to modify too crazy... like tubular front end, full frame, tubbed rear or anything. I am not afraid to weld the crap out of it, add subframes, reinforce the towers and make a lot sturdier better handling car though.

I am definately updating the front end with at least discs, roller perches, Shelby drop, etc.

I have a Ford 9".. gears will depend on what Trans I go with.

I have a tried and true build K code 289 Solid Lifter Engine, blueprinted, balanced, shot peened rods, all ARP fasteners, Edelbrock heads, Roller Rockers, etc. I pulled that from my drag car for this project. I was actually running a 3 speed toploader in that but it was only 1900 pounds and kind of crazy on the street. This thing runs and will run 5500rpm all day long. Someday I'd like the experience of building a stroker but for now this old school small block will do. Need to clean it up (drag car wasnt built for show), decide on pulley and accessory system, etc. I am probably going to change the intake and carb as well and I may fuss with a hand made mach 1 scoop/ ram air conversion.

I have always wanted a 4 speed toploader but I really want this car to be driveable for a 5 or 6 hour trip.... or more. So if I can find a money tree between now and then I may go for a Tremec TKO.

I have a lot of paint schemes in mind... it will either be matte black mono, all chrome trim and wheels powder coated as well... or I may come up with a two or three tone scheme... until the body is mocked back up the first time and I strike some tape down I wont know. I can draw... but I'm not Chip Foose. :)

Anyway, beginning of a long, fun road. I do a lot of work for others and I swap, buy, part out, trade, a lot of Mustangs so that takes time away from the car but I get a lot of parts for free that way... kind of a self supporting hobby really.

[SlimeGold 69]

Anyway, beginning of a long, fun road. I do a lot of work for others and I swap, buy, part out, trade, a lot of Mustangs so that takes time away from the car but I get a lot of parts for free that way... kind of a self supporting hobby really.


That's how you do it! Good job so far. Bodywork is the make-it or break-it phase for all projects. Most give up after a few months, but looks like you made a awesome rotiss there that I would kill to have. Saves alot of work and makes for a overall better job I'm sure. Keep posting pics as you make progress.

[Fordrevhead]

Thanks Slime! This weekend I got started drilling and cutting.

I was side tracked by the light in my sand blasting cabinet dying. Some 13.5" weirdo oddball flourescent 13w junk. I tore the entire thing out and threw it in the trash... it sucked anyway. I got a sealed outside ceiling light with tempered glass and a steel cage over it from Tractor Supply for $30. Mounted it horizontally, added a Romex connector into a steel switch box on the outside, a switch and an extension cord and whollah 100w of incandescent power!

Anyway, I tore into the drivers torque box. The box is not bad at all but certainly rusty inside. The lip of the box was rusted through, then through the front floor support and started a 1/4" hole into the front rail.

5942
Here I drilled out spotwelds.

5943
Saving floor crossbrace... Floor support ready to come apart.

5944
Previously fiberglassed hole, approx. 1.5" discovered above floor support.

5945
Floor support removed.

5946
Cleaning and saving front rail.

[Fordrevhead]

5947

SAFETY FIRST! :001_rolleyes:

[Fordrevhead]

First shipment of parts arrived today from Laurel Mountain. Got the heavy three piece drivers torque box, the drivers floor support, both trunk drop offs, passenger lower rear quarter patch and both side outer cowl panels.

Anyone have good experiences for what to coat the inside of those side cowl and vent panels with?

If spring would only come so I can sandblast outside!

I might have to start some engine work soon instead!

[Fordrevhead]

OK, it's been a while since my last update. I bought some stuff called Undergone from Eastwood and used it to help scrape a lot of the heavy undercoating prior to sand blasting. It helped, I would use it again, but it doesnt perform miracles.

Since then I have began sandblasting... doing it in sections then sealing. Here's a picture of the front mid way with the drivers torque box, floor support and outside cowl cover removed.

6281

Then we got 2 feet of snow on my 6 day weekend so I started working on the engine.

I fit the FMS windage tray and the Canton oil pickup for the 7 qt T sump pan. The windage tray needed a little massaging to clear the pickup. A couple rounds with the ball peen then half round file, then brakleen, then test fit again. I got it to around 3/32" of clearance without the gasket on the oil pump so that should be fine in the end.

6282[ATTACH]

[ATTACH]6283

I also had to bend the tray in at the edges and also slot the baffle in the T pan slightly to get the bolts to all line up nicely. So the Pan is all test fit, mocking up the timing cover/water pump and all the pulleys and accessories now. It looks like now, I'm going with some version of a serpentine Mustang GT system. We'll see what parts I can come up with.

[stangme428]

great work... keep posting pics.. and the progress going!!!!

[Fordrevhead]

I started an album in the gallery with more pics of the qtr and trunk drop off removal as well as the torque box floor support project. Just search for "fordrevhead"

Front floors are full of pin holes after blasting to I'm putting short floors both sides and drivers toe board while the torque box is out. More pictures of that to come.

[Fordrevhead]

I got the universal trunk drop offs from Laurel Mountain (trim for 69-70). So, to make them long enough you cant trim the top (straight cut) you have to cut the bottom. Since I cut out a bad lower quarter patch off the passenger side, I first made a paper template using the drivers side quarter and cut that drop off and fit it. Once I was happy I flipped the template over and did the same for the passenger. I didnt want to be able to see a seam from the repair so I left a 1" drop from the old drop downs. I overlapped the new one on the inside edge. I didnt want a place where moisture could be trapped so after I plug welded it in some holes I drilled, I stitch welded it from both sides. A mild grind and some seam sealer for safety and it will be good to go.

8333

Next I fit the new quarter patch. I went higher than the old one but below the body line. The length was all off (long on top short on bottom) and the shape for the rear bumper inset was not there. I basically reformed it until I was happy and will finish it up on the car. I used panel clips that create .04" gap for nice welds. I used a mig but spotted it and cooled it with the air hose in the opposite hand as I went.

8334

You will notice one plug weld hole that ended up aligned with the drain hole in the trunk drop off which ended up too low to get a good fit, so I will plug it and hole saw a new one (or probably just wont use a drain here).

8335
8336

Here it is roughed out ready for 80 on the DA and a good epoxy sealer.

[Fordrevhead]

On to the drivers side. On this side the quarter had never been patched so the inner wheelhouse was a little rough in both bottom corners. I decided to make and fit the wheel house patches first. In the back, I peeled the lip of the old quarter back and clamped the trunk drop off in place for fitment.

8338

I made a piece but just tacked the top edge in until I get to the lower quarter.

8339

Next to the front of the wheelhouse/drivers side. The edge of the lower quarter lip and back of the rocker weren't bad but after blasting had a few pinholes so I cut the rust off, I could repair the inner better anyway. This is the inner patch, poor pic, but all one piece and was more complicated than it looks.

8340

Here I patched the lips of the rocker and the quarter.

8341

...and here it is ready for sanding and sealing. I scraped the seam sealer out of the rocker/ quarter joint and I need to soda blast this area well!

8342

Next up... torque box, floor support, subframes, toe board, short pans.

[Fordrevhead]

Drivers floor support and torque box. I used the TCP subframes I had to help align everything and measured everything out for square, diagonals and elevation using a tram gauge. I put everything together, adjusted and marked at least twice then drilled and ground for welding and did it again. Boards cut to length helped hold everything where I wanted it.

8355

I wasnt crazy about the alignment of the two pieces of the torque box so (even though it's a Dynacorn). I changed the bottom bend on the inner piece (bent it more) and ground down the end of the ebrake tube to do so then welded it. When I was doing this the spot welds snapped of like first wack of the hammer so I redid those ran some beads here and there and painted the bottom side and seam sealed it before putting the lower piece on.

8358

Not quite finished torque box but basically ready for the toe board and short floor pan.

8356

8357

8359

[70mstang]

Doing some great work and being able to keep it moving! Love it!

[Fordrevhead]

Drivers Torque box complete.
8392

Drivers Toe board patch complete.
8393

Finishing Drivers short pan
8394

Happy Garage :) 3 stangs in there.
8395

[Fordrevhead]

First time in 13 years, someone from the HR department at work called and said that we were closed!

After a bunch of plowing...

I worked on the towers today. Welded a crack, finished a patch, welded the wings, drilled for the Arning (Shelby) drop and made a template for the Boss 302 style tower braces.
8448
8449

Next I guess I have to plug the UCA grease fitting holes someone made. They wont line up too well with the Arning drop and why not just use 45 degree zerk fittings?... ugh

[BuckeyeDemon]

nice weld. are you using a tig or a mig?

[Fordrevhead]

Thanks, it's an older Millermatic 135 Mig

[Fordrevhead]

I little more progress...

Cut out the passenger short pan last weeked. Original but had some pin holes after blasting and I wanted to get to the inside of the floor support on that side to see how it was.

8481

The pan looks worse than it was because I used Eastwoods Panel Seperating Knife which makes short order of removing junk panels. http://www.eastwood.com/panel-separating-knife.html

The floor support was great, just a little surface rust, no scale or pitting whatsoever. I flap wheeled and then treated the inside of the floor support with Eastwoods Rust Convertor. Here is the first coat:

8482

I did another coat last Sunday and the following Saturday, sealed with black 2k. Today I marked the plug weld areas through the holes with a silver sharpy (which shows up great on black 2k! and ground just those spots back to bare metal.

8483

As always, I butt weld all partial panels and patches, floor or not. Here I am locating a new ebrake cable bracket.

8484

[DRASTiK]

Quite the craftsman! Looking at your pics makes me think I need some more welding practice. Mine aren't quite as nice, but they penetrate. I just spend a lot more time grinding than I should need to. heh.

[Fordrevhead]

Thanks Drastik!

Here's a little more work from last weekend. I plugged the grease fitting access holes hacked by PO. Since I am running the Arning/Shelby drop they are in the wrong place anyway. Besides, they make these things called right angle zerk fittings now, lol. The fronts were cut with a hole saw but the backs with a torch. I used .098 thick, C1010, full hard steel and hand cut some plugs after tracing with the sharpie. After trimming and fitting the plugs I beveled the edges for better welds and welded them completely around from both sides and ground smooth. You'll never find these after some priming and sanding.

8576

8577

8578

No work yet this weekend as I picked up an 04 Ford Escape for the daughter and had to replace all of the ebrake cables & rear shoes for inspection. Then of course I installed a stereo with blue tooth and ipod input and an easy pass. Doesnt sound bad but I had to completely remove the console and then 3 of the 6 bolts on the rear ebrake cable brackets snapped off, so I welded the new brackets on (about 6" from the gas tank and the fuel neck on both sides!)

[69shelbycoupe]

atleast you didn't have to weld the gas tank.
I've had to do many of those. :001_unsure: Every time I was just waiting to blow.....lol

[DRASTiK]

I have to plug the grease fitting holes on mine too. All four of them look like somebody just went crazy with a torch. If you're gonna cut the holes, why not just use a holesaw in the first place??!!

[Fordrevhead]

OK, I picked up a complete, running 94 Windsor roller on Sunday so my plans might change just a little. :w00t:

[stangme428]

nice.... roller 351w... that should save you some $$ not having to install the retro kits.. good find!!:thumbup:

[BuckeyeDemon]

what's the plan for the engine? are you going to keep it stock or upgrade?

[Fordrevhead]

Stroker for sure! Looking at combining something like Professional Products EFI and a SC. I have to look at all the "supply" components then reverse engineer the guts for that. Definately will go with aluminum heads if I use a SC though. ..and if the SC & wfi idea works out I wont go over 383 or 393 to keep the stroke shorter and the piston taller. A little less torque but higher revving and will take the heat better.

No rush on the powerplant but I have been looking for a block for a while now. If I get a plan together this summer maybe I can start buying comps and machine work next winter.

[Fordrevhead]

OK, so the Powerjection III can take up to 20 pounds of boost with a SC since it uses not only a wideband O2 sensor but has a 2.5 BAR MAP sensor built into the throttle body with the EMS! If you step up the fuel pressure it supports 600hp. whooooh, pricey though. $1800. I'm not that bad with carbs...lol

[stangme428]

OK, so the Powerjection III can take up to 20 pounds of boost with a SC since it uses not only a wideband O2 sensor but has a 2.5 BAR MAP sensor built into the throttle body with the EMS! If you step up the fuel pressure it supports 600hp. whooooh, pricey though. $1800. I'm not that bad with carbs...lol

pricey, not so sure -- building a quality, reliable fuel system to support 600hp is not cheap.
i have priced a few for a carb setup and end up very close to the 1800. this includes a new gas tank, lines, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, everything but the carb, my demon carb was 600.00.. and when its time to go to efi, i can just buy more parts.
but, i am considering the Powerjection III and a new tank with modified pickup. its within +/- 200.00 from what i have found.

i have held off on a fuel system at the last twitch of a left mouse click... i have not decided...

[Junior2561]

i've got a complete roller short block for mine also, nothing fancy though, its just .30 over with forged pistons and rods. I'm having a hard time telling myself "Don't touch the engine untill the car is painted!!!" its just soooo tempting. Great build thread BTW.

[DRASTiK]

I'm currently on the hunt for a roller 302 block myself. Similar to Junior in that I'm not building the engine until body work and paint is done (or at least primed). I'm going with a carbed 347.

[Fordrevhead]

The sad part is that I had a screaming, built 289 that I had in my Rx7 Drag car. I pulled it and was swapping over the oil pan, converting to serpentine belt, etc. (some of it is somewhere in this build thread I think)... when anyway, I found that the thrust bearing and thrust crank surface were wasted! I had no idea, the engine ran great! Good thing I pulled it when I did! Since that needs a crank I thought about building a 331 or 347, etc but then I have always wanted to build a 351 based stroker. Since I already had the 289 and I didnt get all my chassis blasted two Falls ago I worked on the engine that winter. I thought if the engine was all set and wrapped in plastic on the engine stand it would inspire me to finish the chassis/body quicker. Well, it's wrapped in plastic and on the engine stand but surely not all set. The shop that did the bottom end work was chosen by a friend who no longer lives here and the shop is long closed so oh well. I suspect either they didnt get the surface true, didnt polish it correctly or had it too tight.

Anyway, now I dont know what to do really. Part out the 289, throw a stock crank and bearings in it and back together then sell it complete, use it in something else, stroke it, run it either way in the car until I build the Windsor (probably wouldnt happen, too much changes, trans, pinion angle, flywheel weight, motor mounts, headers, exhaust, on and on.

I do like to baffle myself with choices and then struggle for way too long over making the right one.

[Fordrevhead]

pricey, not so sure -- building a quality, reliable fuel system to support 600hp is not cheap.
i have priced a few for a carb setup and end up very close to the 1800. this includes a new gas tank, lines, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, everything but the carb, my demon carb was 600.00.. and when its time to go to efi, i can just buy more parts.
but, i am considering the Powerjection III and a new tank with modified pickup. its within +/- 200.00 from what i have found.

i have held off on a fuel system at the last twitch of a left mouse click... i have not decided...


good to know. I think my engine will be worth more than the car if I build it like I want, lol.

[DRASTiK]

It's gonna need a crank regardless, so decide what engine you really want. If the stroked 351 is your first choice, then fix the 289 and sell it. You'll get so much more for it that way than if you sell it as-is. Find a 351, stroke it and then you'll have no regrets. If you want to keep the 289, then you can fix it or make it a stroker. Just my 0.02. Oh, by the way, I stumbled onto a roller 302 block this weekend. Standard bore block. Now I just have to keep it rust free until it's time to build the 347 :-)

[Fordrevhead]

OK, so it's been a long summer. A promotion at work, some travel, daughter off to college, two new vehicles in the family, etc... back to the Mustang! Sorry some of these are uber large lousy cell phone pics lol...

So I finished my home made Boss 302 style shock tower braces:

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/8e29fbab.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/f1421aad.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9c6fa67c.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/c31dcfb6.jpg

Then I squared up, fit and finished the front aprons. I have decided to smooth out everything and make it a real show type finish even though I am not a show guy:

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/e8fadfa6.jpg

Then on to the drivers rear quarter which I thought was solid but found a small patch that wasnt very well done and had rusted again (here the car is upside down):

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/4ac0ab3c.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/36b36443.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/0bb01127.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/da8731b1.jpg

The only metal work left on the chassis is the subframe connectors and seat risers. Plan is to finish this up and get it all sealed, then in sandable primer for finish work, seam sealer, etc. before winter. Then at some point I will be fitting panels and onto that type of work this winter.

OK, one more photo for good measure. At one point I had this 70, the wifes 64.5 project, my 80 Fox body and the new 2011GTCS all in the shop at once (like a fridge full of beer... it was a HAPPY GARAGE!).

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/7301d6ce.jpg

[Fordrevhead]

Worked on the seat risers today...

I bought FB risers, about an inch shorter than stock which opens up some seat options and gives some more head room.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/00d27c72.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/310ddb41.jpg

There was no center brace on the seat risers so I am reusing the old ones. The old seat risers were fine btw but that rust in there bothered me... lol.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/15b07ed3.jpg

If you dont have one of these tools from Eastwood get one, they rule!

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/4164f5d0.jpg

I cut up some 1/2" threaded rod I had kicking around and mounted them into the seat risers to align them.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/5eaa78f8.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/82484535.jpg

I sealed just the area of the floor that I was covering... it was weeks previously blasted and treated with two coats of Eastwood Rust Convertor. I also painted the bottom side of the risers after scuffing up the EPDM coating with some 320.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9bc0601f.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/8f0a10e2.jpg

I use a metallic silver sharpy on black paint for marking.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/5cc833ce.jpg

[BuckeyeDemon]

good work. your welds always look great.

[Fordrevhead]

Thanks Buckeye, I can only hope my finished product is 1/2 as nice as yours! In hopes to keep things moving I will be posting small updates as I go. Fall is moving in and I hope to take a bunch of Fridays off and pray for some nice weather to finish up some things.

So I removed, clean up, sealed and painted the original riser braces one weeknight last week (thinking ahead). Even on the lower risers they worked fine and cleared the floor without any mods. I located, and fit them, drilled spot weld holes similar to original but larger and in a much neater fashion, lol. I marked the spot weld locations on the bottom side of the risers which I sprayed the weekend before. I then use a small Roloc disc and remove the paint to bare metal just on these spots. This works well and I have had good luck in the past as it leaves all other areas sealed much better than the factory.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/813532c8.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9179d6da.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/d6490baf.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/c5ce9f4e.jpg

The only metal work on the tub left is the vent panels, side cowel covers (removed only to do a better job on the vent panels, and the subframe connectors. I do want to seal and spray the bottom side of the floor at least in a racing stripe fashion above where the subframes will mount before I weld them in. They have already been fit as I used these to help true up everything when I did the drivers side torque box and floor support.

[kenyu73]

Nice work, no lie! I also agree, your welds are nice... I think I need to lay off the trigger, 1/2 my welds are huge mounds that take forever to grind down. For some reason, I think I get better penetration by making a mountain of a spot weld.

Me and you gotta meet up face-to-face some day. You got allot of good methods and ideas I certainly could use!

[Fordrevhead]

This weekend we had amazing weather and Saturday was calm as well, so I pulled the rotisserie out and finished spot blasting a few spots, cleaned and vacuumed for hours then shot the entire car minus the roof (already done) in DP90 black. I used about 3 quarts of sprayable material.

Then on Sunday afternoon I shot another three quarts of gray primer surfacer over the black (easy to see). Nice to see it sealed up for winter and one color. However, I do remember thinking I would be at this stage last Fall... ugh.

I still need to do the vent panels and side cowl covers and the subframe connectors (I wanted the floor above the subframes all sealed up first). Then I can move on to hanging and fitting panels this winter!

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/aad8a3b0.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/df703e46.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/e0786661.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9585af85.jpg

[BuckeyeDemon]

looks pretty solid at this point!

[Fordrevhead]

Been puttering away on the 70 a few half days between the winter preparation. Installed a plow on my truck this year, sold the old plow truck, did a few side jobs, split the wood, hung the Christmas lights, washed, waxed and put the 2011 GTCS away, etc.

Here's the progress... a few final spots of patching:

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/fe8fdec0.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9507017d.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/7f20de2a.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/2430dcc4.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/84773f88.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/1dcfd127.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/c611046a.jpg



http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/4229d0c4.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/b5063429.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/f0acded0.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9ab6eee9.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/b8433192.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/3a27e947.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/1dac7806.jpg



http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/4fe98f0f.jpg

I didnt plan the view of the 65 through the 70 vent hole... really.

[Mike65]

WOW!!! great work. In the 14th pic you made a new piece that the vent attachs to what gauge metal did you use & where did you get it?. How are your side cowl covers? I have one for the l/s if you need it.

[Junior2561]

looking good! Clean car. I like the shot of the other project car through your side vent

[Fordrevhead]

Thanks! Only the surrounds were bad on the cowl vents from the protruding stamped shape, lack of factory coatings and stupid stock foam holding moisture. I made these from 16 gauge (.059") half hard steel, so that I had plenty to weld to and they wont rust away. I made a pattern by tracing the inside and cutting a stiff paper template with several trials then checking to the vent bolt pattern.

After I made the pieces you refer to From the template, I traced them on the outside with a sharpie after screwing them in place from the inside. Then I cut the flange out perfectly. It should have been a butt weld but due to the thicker metal it was a nice fillet weld all around biasing the mig tip toward the thicker metal.

I skipped a few photos but I did both sides in about 4 hours.

The cowl side covers were solid but totally surface rust on the inside. Since I had to remove them to do a good job on the vents I already bought a pair of Dynacorn parts. After I do some finish work, sealing, etc I will be doing those next... Check back for updates!

[Fordrevhead]

I did some clean up work on the door posts and the top of the window frames and 2K sealed those while I had a small pot mixed up for the cowl vent areas.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/0eca985a.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/059b8c1a.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/f379b992.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/b1ef9c21.jpg

The next day I undercoated the vent area and the inside of the cowl side covers.



http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/0e91f63d.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/44d6d225.jpg

I got them both fit and welded in place. I find more and more that I do the second side in about 1/4 of the time of the first side, lol.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/bd570567.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/a6d69a3f.jpg

By the smell and a tab of smoke I imagine that a bit of the underocoating melted away near the flange plug welds so I will seam seal the inside where the flanges meet through the vent hole then after a couple days to cure I will undercoat over the seam sealer.

[Angel]

Its coming along real well. Nice.

[69SlowResto]

Looking good!

[stangnet33]

Looking great so far ! Also one of the better home made rotisseries that I've seen. Any way you could post a few more detailed pics of it if you don't mind someone using some idea's from it ? I like the height you get from it. Keep the progress going.

[Mike65]

When you made the template for the kick panel vent openings did you happen to save it? Your work looks awesome, keep up the good work & keep the pics comming.

[Fordrevhead]

When you made the template for the kick panel vent openings did you happen to save it? Your work looks awesome, keep up the good work & keep the pics comming.

Thanks, and Yes, I have a drawing of the template in CAD... As well as the Arning drop templates, the Boss shock tower brace, and the entire rotisserie. :) Need to upload some pics and an update soon.

[Fordrevhead]

So, I havent sent an update for a while. Work has been real busy but I still find about 6 hours a weekend to "Get on it." <<< song from friends band if you are into hillbilly trash music check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypgwS8YCuKA

It was tricky to do or to take a picture of but I seam sealed inside the cowl vents.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/330a48cf.jpg

I have decided after all the work, that I am going to base coat clear the bottom of the car (not until after doing a first fit and finish of all body panels). So I have been doing a bit more finish work on the bottom side:

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/f92b92a2.jpg

I need the get a couple strips of the floor finished and painted then I will weld the sub frame connectors in. I also ordered this x brace to go with the subframe connectors:

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/6785ec4e.jpg

Although I had sealed up the car before winter hit (something I thought I would have done the Fall before), I had made not of a few spots on the body that needed further investigation.

I had found one small patch (like 1" x 3") that was brazed in on the passenger rear quarter, front of the wheel opening. I cut it out to redo and found a bad spot on the outer wheelhouse as well.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/a7af947b.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/7676eec4.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/1d32da59.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/0e209eb6.jpg

I skipped a few steps photo wise but I sealed the wheelhouse area up with two coats of 2k, and later some black paint, then welded plug welds from the wheel opening, butt welds, you've seen enough of that on this thread, then seam sealed from the back after.

Then, the worse spot yet that I was avoiding. An old dent repair on the drivers quarter behind the door. I knew from the outside there was some filler and I knew from feeling the backside that I was not happy with it. I took a grinder to it to see how thick it was. I considered removing all of the filler and working the panel the way it should have been since it was original. But I found some pitting down at the bottom near the rocker and decided I might do a lot of work only to not be happy and cut it out anyway so off it came. The denting and previous poor dolly work stopped about 5 or 6" below the body line (well above in this upside down picture) but they blended the filler way out... quicky job for sure. I removed the rest later and started with bare metal.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/d27fbb9e.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/cf2a613d.jpg

I am glad I did it because I was able to clean up the inside panels and fix the outer wheelhouse lip.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/a1644cfb.jpg

I had a donor 70 convertible quarter that I sacrificed. If anyone needs the rest of it let me know. I first fit and trimmed it before hacking up the wheelhouse and used it to locate the wheelhouse repair, then vice-versa.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/db8f06b0.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9bcc62cb.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9b823be6.jpg

[Fordrevhead]

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/249cb16b.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9c0c146e.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/3c286c9c.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/275b92df.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/d78664eb.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/7dca0182.jpg

Here I flap wheeled inside, did some hand sanding, rust treatment. I usually do treatment or sealing at the end of the day or before moving to another project then come back to it another day or weekend. I always forget pictures here with overspray everywhere but I am not a guy that ever takes shortcuts but especially not after this much work.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/b06aeed1.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/df98ace3.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/5feef534.jpg


Roughed in:

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/b3d8d8cb.jpg

The curvature of the bottom body line didnt match the other side so I worked it a bit too. Enough for now until the doors are hung.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/fordrevhead/1970%20Mustang%20Coupe%20Rotisserie%20Restoration/9cb1cd57.jpg

I have also fully welded the rear torque boxes, added some more beads to the bottom of the shock tower/frame rail overlaps, etc.

Next is to finish up the floors, paint a strip, weld in the subframes. I already fit them when I did the front floor support and drivers torque box. Last weekend I put them on again and drilled the mounting holes (which also attach the x brace).